Julian's '91 200 20vt

[88a5tq]

These turbine housing bolts are fecking annoying little buggers. The 2 next to the feed and drain oil flanges are stuck. All else is loose. It's soaking in that new WD40 penetrating oil. It was PB before today for 24 hrs. Still chipping away at it

[DE80q]

A MAP torch will make ease of those.

[88a5tq]

BAH! I used my butane hobby torch on the compressor nut in case that green stuff was loctite. I guess id heat the bolt specifically then use a dropper of cold water on it immediately after then wrench. I'll try later

[DE80q]

With the exhaust housing nuts your fighting rust, not thread lock. It may be necessary to get the nut nearly glowing to free it up. BTDT more than I care to remember.

[loxxrider]

Well, if it doesn't seem to be genuine, then return it. Goldfarb can supply one that's genuine for sure.

[Oldestof11]

Best way to get those lil buggers is a long wrench, Map or oxy/ace torch, and a good 3lbs hammer whack. Heat the snail more so than the bolt. I've never had to go more than 15 mins with a map torch before they were loose.

[88a5tq]

Thanks for the advice. I'm remaining optimistic since the other 4 weren't very difficult

Chris what do you make of their "machined from copper bar, upgraded thrust bearing with larger oil holes" ?
They say it's to counteract the reports of oil-starvation-fueled standard thrust bearing failures (takes breath)

[88a5tq]

I did get a MAP torch but not until a good waste of time using a propane torch instead. I was being too optimistic i suppose. Got hungry and lost the urge to finish. Back tomorrow

[loxxrider]

Thanks for the advice. I'm remaining optimistic since the other 4 weren't very difficult

Chris what do you make of their "machined from copper bar, upgraded thrust bearing with larger oil holes" ?
They say it's to counteract the reports of oil-starvation-fueled standard thrust bearing failures (takes breath)

I only said it was genuine based on the description. If it isn't, return it and let Amazon know the seller is dishonest. An HX35 used for our purposes should have absolutely no problem using the stock rebuild parts. Do you even know yours needs a rebuild?

[88a5tq]

I'm not certain but I do hear the occasional jingle of of something metal within the cartridge while spinning the comp wheel. This occurred with oil in it as well however I didn't notice until I put oil in it honestly.

After some thinking I decided that rebuilding a turbo was something I wanted to try just like when I did the head gasket replacement. It's an experience I want to have tried I guess

[88a5tq]

I marked the comp wheel to lign up on the shaft properly so I feel like I can't mess it up and it would be extra insurance. I have engine assembly lube left over as well to use. I'm confident I can do this

[88a5tq]

Straight from the mouth of a horse:

"Holset only sells the thrust bearing, journal bearing, and the piston rings seals. They don't sell the thrust components which commonly see wear. So those parts have to be source aftermarket. You can buy a rebuild kit direct from holset, but since they don't sell the full rebuild kit, you can replace some of the parts. Which will not guaranttee the turbo the last. I use these kits in my own turbos have had zero problems for 7 years now."

[loxxrider]

That's good.

Also, no need to mark the wheels because all components are zero balanced. By definition, that means assembly orientation is meaningless.

You are aware that there are factory rebuild manuals available for this right?

[88a5tq]

I will definately find one. Thanks. See I read they were all balanced separately also but I didn't want to tell YOU that lol Actually it was some stranger on a forum that posted it so I didn't want to say it also and then be judged once it was found to be incorrect

[88a5tq]

A bit off topic but I thought this was pretty cool. I had an idea similarly on the 710 valve but realized quickly it would not function.
http://m.aliexpress.com/item/619618908.html?tracelog=storedetail2mobilesitedetail

So dam cheap?

[pilihp2]

[88a5tq]

It's so... BEAUTIFUL

Maybe it's made in Istanbul or something tho

[88a5tq]

Oil is dripping from the turbine housing now that I've heated it up to separate it. Would probably have been a problem later :(

[pilihp2]

Ali express is kinda like chinas amazon.
Gonna be a crapshoot getting good quality, but that does look like the same china BOV i've seen sold for much more in the US. Same stuff, just overnight parts from ja-China.

[88a5tq]

I really do hate waiting a month for something.
I got the bolts off the turbine housing with heat but was stopped dead in my tracks while trying to separate the housing from the chra. It's like it's welded by carbon or something. I read around and put the turbo in a plastic bucket and poored a 1:1 mix of acetone and ATF on the seam and sealed it up for the night. Supposedly it will seep in there and release everythimg. It's my last rebuild obstacle ffs. Will start again with heat tomorrow

[DE80q]

You just need a bigger hammer...

[loxxrider]

Yes, sledge hammer is what I always use lol

[88a5tq]

I was using a rubber mallet from underneath to hit the coldsides backplate up. Then switches to a wood block to do the same. I should probably but the chra in the vice with wood blocks and smash the turbine side with said hammer instead. Stubborn as hell

[DE80q]

I used a 3lbs mini sledge to separate the K26 housing... Can't be worried about it breaking. The carbon bond should break well before the metal housing.

[88a5tq]

Alright I'll be merciless then I guess