‘90 CQ crappy on center feel

[Sparkyjack]

The issue turned out to be stupid simple.
The nuts on bracket that connects the tie rods together at the rack where loose.
Not sure how that happened as they where new nylock nuts last year.

Thighten the nuts and an alingment and all is well.

Jack

I believe that the rack piston is threaded and the nuts are supposed to act as an additional fastener. Make sure that you have the correct bolts installed.

It was the nuts on the studs that pass thru the inner tie rod ends and connected to the bracket that connects to the rack piston. The rack piston bolts and nuts are correct and where tight.

Jack

[elaw]

It sure helped me considerably. I would bump steer and be all over the road. I had the alignment redone with it toe'd in to the inner limit, and it tracks much better, and I don't feel like I'm trying to jump lanes on the highway every time I hit a small bump.

Dave,

I know we've been back-and-forth on this a couple of times but my small brain still isn't understanding exactly what's needed here. I get mixed up with "min/max", positive/negative values, and what represents "in" vs. "out" with toe.

The spec for the 80q front is 10 +/- 10 minutes (I'll use minutes because the numbers are simpler) or in other words 0 to 20 minutes. As I understand it, higher numbers mean more toe-in, so the ideal number is 20 which is the most toed-in?

And the same is true in the rear? Spec is 20 +/- 10 or 10-30, and 30 would be the ideal setting?