1983 URQ Alpine White/Mocha 20VT / VEMS / EFR

[Nateflix56]

I agree, weld it and run it. Are you able to at least position the repair to the shroud down so it's less visible?

[Afterthought]

Personally, I'd weld it and run it for now. If for no other reason than to buy some time while the OEM parts come in, and then do a back-to-back comparison on a hot weekend later in the summer.

The RS2 shroud (aka "Cowl" on the AT website) is PN: 893121207H

Do you have a PN for the 500w fan that's in the RS2/200 20v?

Issam got me the shroud , so I have that . The fan , if my number is right I have 443 959 455 N

[Afterthought]

I agree, weld it and run it. Are you able to at least position the repair to the shroud down so it's less visible?

It’s not going to be perfect don’t I could weld it then polish it so it’s not even visible .
The good news is now I know I can make one - it’s making that first piece that can be really frustrating .
If I wanted to remake it I guess I would need 3003-H14 instead of 6061

[Afterthought]

Fan setup dialed [THUMBS UP SIGN]


Oil cooler will go here. It’s rubber mounted

Also another important piece that took a while to find . For the oil pan. So tomorrow I should have everything I need to make the supply and return line to the oil cooler - at that point I will be able to fill the car with oil . Coolant not far behind

[the german]

Nice! I dig the fan. RS2?

[Afterthought]

Nice! I dig the fan. RS2?

The shroud is RS2 but the fan is from a 200Q

[Afterthought]

Gonna look at wiring today on the headlights .
The stock stuff is in bad shape . I have a sealed 3 relay box I am going to try and get it in there clean.
Need to find the Diagrams and figure out which is high/low . Turns . Etc. everything needs to get cleaned up .
These are the lights and the relay setup.
Everything is made with Waytek wire , high quality heat shrink and nice 3M glue/shrink butt connectors. Waterproof sealed box with 3 relays and 3 fuses.






Current wiring !!!



If I take it back to where the shielding is , it makes a big difference . These are not all cracked and dry.
So once I figure out what’s what I can tie in the H1/H4 high and lows with he relayed setup, then figure out exactly what needs to stay and what can go with the remainder of the wires and clean all that up.

[Nateflix56]

I'm very interested in seeing how the headlight rewiring turns out. The PO appears to have scotch locked unfused power to one of the circuits, then to what I think was a city light.

[Afterthought]

I'm very interested in seeing how the headlight rewiring turns out. The PO appears to have scotch locked unfused power to one of the circuits, then to what I think was a city light.

Well for one . Yes there is some interesting wiring in there . I am kind of doubting that was the PO but likely the original owner before him.
But in addition to that even the stock wiring on these cars left untouched can get sketchy. All the heat and elements in the engine bay (or likely even overheating the wires themselves) has really made everything extremely brittle and all those wires just want to crack.
So the dual purpose of this relayed setup is to take some load off of the factory fusebox and also to clean up and make that wiring safe . At the same time converting to the euro lights. It had stock lights in when I got it.
I hit a stopping point because I wanted to get some newer connectors , the stock ones are garbage . I found some per Alex’s recommendation that will Work nice - and if I don’t end up working all weekend maybe I can finish that setup and have some lights .


Once this is done I will have a professional quality relayed & fused cooling fan setup and a (hopefully semi professional looking) relayed & fused headlight setup and should alleviate some of the concerns of overload on the factory fuse box .

[Afterthought]

Haven’t had much time to work on anything lately . Working on getting things buttoned up little by little .


Made some lines for the oil cooler . Not sure if I will run them in front or behind the oil pan .





Put headlights in place and started with the wiring .
I have the relays wired up and found some good plugs to use. Just need now to make sure I’m connecting the right wires on the car side .


My stock wiring for the quads has the ground on the right , but I believe for H4 I need it opposite.


This is an H4 equipped URQ


So it appears that I have on the drivers side
low Beam = Yellow/blk stripe
High beam = white/blk stripe

Passenger side
Low = yellow
High= white

Which matches this





Then I need to sort out all this .

I need to find a good diagram for these cars. Does anyone know where I can get a wiring manual for the URQ ? The only diagram I can find is on B2 Resource but I can’t print it .

[Nateflix56]

I personally like the routing behind the pan, you'd be able to secure them to the subframe. Maybe a couple cable clamps to keep it from chaffing anywhere. It looks like it would be difficult to secure them infront of the pan without getting creative with pan bolts.

I was able to find a Bentley electrical troubleshooting manual for my CQ on ebay, might start there.

[Afterthought]

Behind the pan works well, as long as I leave out the front swap bar . I could test fit the sway bar I guess and see what options that gives me .
I have seen those electrical manuals , both in Bentley and Audi versions . Haven’t found one for the URQ yet but maybe I’ll get lucky


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[PRY4SNO]

I wouldn't leave out the front sway bar, especially after Sam tested results with/without on his Cq. Data is in his build thread somewhere, but it was thorough and well documented.

[Afterthought]

I wouldn't leave out the front sway bar, especially after Sam tested results with/without on his Cq. Data is in his build thread somewhere, but it was thorough and well documented.

Thanks, I will search through and see if I can find the data
It sounds like maybe I could benefit more from running both but possibly playing around with the sizes front and rear . I have a few to choose from but I can’t remember if they’re all the same .
I know I have at least these
4000 Q F
1991 B3 front subframe & Sway bar
1991 B3 rear subframe & sway bar
Stock URQ front / rear sway bars

Not that any of this needs to happen right away. I’ll probably fit up the stock one and see if it leaves me any room to secure the lines back there otherwise I will have to go to the front . As Nate said it can be done but last time I went that route I had to make brackets to hold them up but of the way of the belts

[Afterthought]

Took a look at the subframe for a minute last night .
So I have the B2 and B3 sway bar but if I switched to b3 the sway bar end links would have to change . I don’t think there is a point to switch it , because The b3 sway bar appears to be 24mm and my stock URQ one and 4000 one are larger like 28mm.

I don’t know if there is enough room for a good hose path in here for the cooler lines


May have to go in front , would look like this


Also noticed between 83 and 85 there is a difference in the sway bar clamps to the subframe , mine has a hook on he end of it on one end and a bolt in the other , rather than the 2 bolt design .


Sway bar halfway cleaned up

[PRY4SNO]

Personally I'd try to start off with as close to OE as possible then tweak from there based on your preferences and set up. We know these cars understeer already due to drivetrain layout, but your coil overs will have an impact that will first need to be observed (IMO).

An increase of 1mm on an anti-sway bar diameter has a dramatic effect. From what I have read, an increase (or decrease) in diameter is at an x^4 relationship to anti-roll stiffness. Too much (or too little) can dial in unwanted under/over steer and negatively alter the car's balance.

[Afterthought]

Thank you I appreciate the advice . I don’t know a lot about suspension setup or modification and change . Sam has a lot of good info I see.
So my plan is right now to find the other bracket so I can put the stock one in. The other one that’s halfway sandblasted is identical so I can finish cleaning that up.
Then I can research if there is any advantage swap to the b3 subframe (other than that it will buy me time to powdercoat it , press in the new bushings and get the whole setup looking fresh) I read the b3 one is maybe a little sturdier due to metallurgy improvement and I’ve also seen that some people weld the seams up. So I need to figure out what’s what there .

[PRY4SNO]

Happy to help!

I stitch welded my subframes to increase rigidity. Figured it'd be a good first step before I weld in strut tower brace brackets from my parts 90.

[Afterthought]

Few things done today , one was easy one was a huge PITA and not sure if I’m Satisfied with the result yet ...
I spent a tone of time trying to make a place to locate my harness interior parts (breaker, fuses, relays , ECU) that is hidden and safe . So first I tried just a flat sheet of aluminum .
Marked a few things out, figured out how much space I have, and how much I needed. Current wiring layout .

As usual I did not do any research or get any ideas of how to lay it out just tried something .



This fastens to the blocker plate that goes into the hole where my AC intake used to be
. This way no holes or modifications were done to any part of the car so if I don’t like it I can remove easily .
It’s rubber mounted by bushings and held in with Allens . Then the ECU is mounted to it and plugged in. It *should* fit with the glovebox and not interfere anywhere and be invisible , just need to figure out how to tuck the wires away.

This is what’s left as far as terminations I think.
Fuel pump
Switched ign 12V
Black with eyelet (GND or 12V constant ?)
Tach signal
Mystery yellow wire (starter solenoid?)


The fact that it has a tach signal and fuel pump trigger makes me think Marc built it to function like the AAN harness would


Refinished a couple more things and started cleaning the engine bay and rain tray . Time to stop storing things there

[mrdeye]

Nice and clean!!

[Nateflix56]

Looks great!

[the german]

This is looking fantastic. All you need is a new coolant bottle

[audifreakjim]

Looks killer!

[Afterthought]

This is looking fantastic. All you need is a new coolant bottle

Kirk I have been looking into this because it irritates me too but no luck yet . I have ordered two , I finally thought I had found the proper one - a new OEM tank, and of course they’re wrong when they showed . Not even close .
I need a solution for something that will work there .
The only issue with this is that I already painted the engine bay - so I could have taken , say, a B5 s4 reservoir and easily made the mounts work with it but it’s too late to cut and weld in there now

[mrdeye]

I kinda like the old and busted look. It’s carbon dated. If you were to get a new one it probably wouldn’t last as long. Maybe I’m wrong. Don’t throw it away, keep it for a spare.