'84 COUPE GT GRP2

[mrdeye]

So far the car is gutted with a 4kq subframe/sway bar, rear disc convesion, 2Bennette coilover kit and a race seat that needs to be remounted. I can get a 1.8t egine with low miles, harness and ECU for $1500. I'm not sure of the engine code, it came out of a jetta and it has an internal water pump. My biggest conserns are, I'm sure there are more, engine mounts, Wizard-of-od how are they coming, fly wheel/clutch and if it will even bolt up to the tranny. I'm not looking to break any land speed records with this project but something I can take to the track and maybe race in what ever organization that will take me. How much hores power do I want? How much power can the tranny take? I know it will need a quaife, OUCH!!!!!!!!! I've seen a hand full of people on here do this swap. Your knowlegd and everyone elses comments would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks sooooo much
Matt

[mrdeye]

The car and wheels that came with it when I bought it. Anybody know where to get one of these wheels. The car was bought from a salvage yard with a bad balljoint. Ya its not in the best of shape but I think I can polish that terd. With two kids this project will be slow going.

Attachment ( 19881 ) : IMG_4141.JPG


Attachment ( 19880 ) : IMG_4139.JPG


Attachment ( 19879 ) : IMG_4138.JPG

[glibobbo21]

they look like OZ's almost

[audidub]

yeah they look like me old oz's but don't have removable centers good luck, thats the closest i've seen to the ones i had and they aren't a perfect match, gotta be late mid-late 80s vintage if i had to guess. the coupe doesn't look like its in bad shape at all really should be a nice starting point. :cheers:

[mrdeye]

So I'm going to try and make my own egine mounts . What steps do I need to take so that the engine is sitting correctly in its home?

Thanks
MRD

[200 Avant]

Matt,

I'd start by measuring the engine compartment dimensions and where the current engine sits (fore & aft). I'd also measure the tranny & transaxle positions. Oh yea.. check the angle on your garage floor and the angle of the engine relative to the floor before removing it. Now compare the dimensions of the two engines (Length, Width, engine mounting points relative to the rear edge of the block and more). Take the original engine mounting brackets and compare. Can you graft them together, are the mounting points the same, can a simple mod get your mounting points and dimensions get you what you need?... Ask yourself all these questions .. If you can make this work then you can get away with an easy swap you're Golden.... WRITE and draw everything out. Do not try and remember this stuff or you'll be hosed..

Now begins the fun. Pull the fenders, front clip & engine. Grab my hoist and be prepared with the new engine, jack stands, a level, cardboard, scribes, markers, tape, scissors and other goodies to begin your designing. You may have to reposition the mounting points on the frame and cut out old stuff. Be patient and take your time... this can be easy or a real PIA.

Make sure you consider radiator mounting, steering, exhaust and accessory locations in your design..

Have fun dude... You can always use my hoist..

:wink:

[bimmerboy]

they look like OZ's almost

They are OZs. That's why they say OZ on them

[sam80quattro]

lol i was gonna say that untill i scrolled down to your post bimmerboy

[glibobbo21]

i dont think that pic was there...thanks captain obvious

[mrdeye]

So I've decided to go a defferent route! Keeping the engine N/A. Been working on this for a while whenever I have the time and money. Things are going pretty slow but yesterday me and a friend got the engine in its home. :woowoo: One day I hope it will look like or close to the real deal. Here are some pics for your viewing pleasure! :-)



The home of LRG Racing (Little Red Garage)

[mrdeye]

The futuer driver

The tear down



Coming out the hard way!





Head freshend up, pistons sand blasted, new rings, honed the cylenders, main and rod bearings.

[mrdeye]

The new home of LRG Racing!











Going in the easy way!




And yours truly. :-)

Going to eventualy delete the cis and go with VEMS.

[Veeman]

Looks like a great start to the project! I had a coupe that raced in SCCA ITB for a few years and enjoyed the car although never quite developed mine as far as some of the others out there (Blethens, etc). Despite being front end heavy and a bit of a pig, it can be set up to be a blast on the track. I did a limited slip in mine and it did make a big difference, although if I had it to do over again, I'd contemplate a welded diff.

One thought about the engine management... If you switch to VEMS, you'll be fine for track / lapping days, but may run into issues if you plan to race with some racing organizations / clubs. For example, I don't think SCCA (at least IT doesn't) allows standalone fuel injection since the car never came with electronic injectors. Not sure about NASA or others.

I realize you're a bit away from this decision, but sometimes when building a project, I've seen people advise the builder/driver to pick a series / club where they want to run and then build to the specs / rules. That way, you don't end up doing mods that will exclude you from certain events, etc. Just an idea.

[mrdeye]

Thanks for the input Veeman! I've thought about it alot and if I have to run with the big boys all do it! For now just trying to get the car to a point where I can get out to the track and have some fun. I've heard mixed things about welding the diff, been told that it has to slip a little or things will eventually break. 1k for the diff, 1k+ for body kit, 1k for egine management and so on. Its only money!

[Mcstiff]

B.O.A.T.

Looks like fun! My goal over the winter is to get the 7aT track ready B-)

I'd offer a hand but realistically, I barely have time ever lol.

[Kliminati]

Cool project

Ill just leave these here as a bit of motivation for you...

[200 Avant]

Look'n good Matt... The car I mean not you

[mrdeye]

200 Avant wrote:[/quote]

Look'n good Matt... The car I mean not you [/quote]
......... , :-)

[mrdeye]

Thanks Kliminati! I've seen that one on B.A.T.com, its up in Canada. Wonder if any of our friends to the north can copy that body kit?
Gotta thank user Twintowers for posting this acouple of months ago. Made my pants tight!
http://www.youtube.com/embed/xNAX567SdOo" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

I sure as hell wouldn't have shook the guys hand after he ran it through his shweddy hair! :barf: :-)

[lowpassat92]

Who owns that amazing 5x112 swapped Coupe GT with minty Fuchs?


















Oh, thats right! Its me!

[mrdeye]

Been plug'n away at this thing! At this point in time I'm just trying to get it running agian. Ran in to a little problem with this
radiator I've had for some time. Looks great in the engine bay!


But it no fit! :frustrated: Has anyone ever cut, re-weld a radiator and have good results? If I cut 5 rows out it would fit. See!

OOPS! Sorry for that.



Gets a little close in this area!

My other issue is the two switches in the next pic are NLA. The new style looks like the switch w/green wire but has two switches coming off harness w/different connector to engine harness. Know what I mean? I would think I could rig something up so swithes would talk to ECU. Anybody got any ideas :?


Thanks for your time!

[HeartlessNomad12]

for the connectors go to radioshack and get some simple generic waterproof ones

[mrdeye]

for the connectors go to radioshack and get some simple generic waterproof ones

Mk, thanks!

Whats the difference between 10vN/A and 20vt injectors? At a glance it just looks like the snap ring just below rubber seal and shroud that I pulled off. Anything internally different? N/A on the left, turbo on the right. Reason why I ask is that I can get some for free that came out of a good running engine from a friend. Thanks for your time!

[Katman]

Rad:
What if you mounted it at an angle, the same way some do when trying to fit in an AAN minifold into a small body? Might *just* get you enough room to get away without cutting up your nice rad!

Switches:
*Very* easy to splice new ones with the mini harness in. Instead of two wries to each switch, one of the '3' wires is common to each switch, with the free 'switched' sides going to the ECU.

Hardest part is to find a matching 3 pin conenctor
( or you could just cut the connector off the end of the green wires..)

[ralleyquattro]

You need the 7A/3B oil pan, it has the proper cutout for the side mounted radiator.
Tilting the rad is not ideal as it reduces the effective frontal area and cooling capacity BTDT.
There must be at least 2-3 7A pans for sale at this time. Worth getting IMHO.