Eric's '90 80QT: rustic bits

[audifreakjim]

07K crank takes the 1.8T size pilot bearing, if that helps at all.

[Hybrid_Hatch]

you have an 016 in your 80?

[elaw]

There are two different sized pilot bearings and input shafts. But I believe the O.D. is the same on both since they fit into the same I5 crank. I think I have two new ones of each here so I can check to confirm but I am 99.9% sure.

I'd really appreciate that!

It sounds like I'd be good if the ODs are the same, so I could bore the crank and then use either bearing depending on which tranny I use.

(Edited: I didn't realize there were a couple of replies while I was typing the above so I added the quote to give context)

[deaner]

Nice! I've kicked around a bunch getting one in my rally car and running it NA. The cost involved slog with the amount of "one off" parts has kept me from pulling the trigger though. Down the road after the chassis is dialed I'll swap in a 1.8t for a bit better balance. Until then, I'll thrash this aan. I'm excited to see what you do with that thing!

[elaw]

you have an 016 in your 80?

I surely do! You can read all about it earlier in this thread. It's an urquattro tranny with a 3.89:1 rear diff.

[elaw]

07K crank takes the 1.8T size pilot bearing, if that helps at all.

Hmm... I think it might!

Looking around the intarwebs, it looks the 1.8t pilot bearing is 15x21x15 mm which I assume means it's 15 ID, 21 OD, and 15 long. Or maybe I've got it backwards and the length is 15 and the ID is 15. :wink:

A 4000q pilot bearing (a 4000q of course uses an 016 transmission) it says is 15 x 24 x 26mm. Logically the 26mm dimension can't be the ID because it's the largest. And I don't think 24 is the ID because the bearing must be more than 1mm thick. So that means the ID must be 15 (which observant readers will note is the same as the 1.8t) and either the OD is 24 and length is 26 or vice-versa. It really doesn't matter - what I take from that is there's a bearing that has the right OD to fit in the 07K and the right ID to match the 4kq 016 input shaft.

The same site (http://www.redlinemotive.com/replacemen ... earing.asp) shows a different bearing for a "-89 200 QT 20v MC" (which would have an 016 tranny, right?) which measures 18 x 24 x 16mm. Along with the info yodasfro supplied, I take that to mean the OD is 24mm which is the same as the 4KQ bearing thus meeting the "both have the same OD" rule. 16 is probably the ID, and 18 is probably the length. If this is true, it would mean that some 016s have 15mm ends on the input shafts as indicated above and others have 16mm ends. And as long as I'm using one with the smaller input shaft, it might have a chance of working!

One question which arises from the above is which 016s use the smaller bearing and which use the larger? Maybe they made the switch when they went to torsen center diffs? I think there's at least one other change that goes with that and it's the slave cylinder. Does anyone know if all 016s use the same disc? Or more specifically do they have the same spline dimensions? I thought they did but that and $1.00 will get you a cup of coffee.

So that all sounds wonderful - but I'm sensing another issue coming on. Look at the flywheel end of the crank on my AAN:

Note the little "snout" that centers the flywheel, but it looks like the pilot bearing actually sits deeper than mounting surface for the FW.

Now look at the end of the 07K crank:

Not only is the "snout" a different diameter than on the earlier 5-cylinder (I verified this by trying to slide a 7A flywheel on there and it was nowhere near fitting) but it sticks out a lot farther.

If I ended up using an adapter plate for the 016 that could actually be a good thing. But if I don't, there might be a question of whether the pilot bearing could be pressed far enough into the crankshaft.

I don't suppose anyone has an early 5-pot sitting around and could grab a caliper and measure how far the "snout" sticks out and the depth of the hole for the pilot bearing?

[mr_aj_johnson]

Doesn't the 7a flywheel require a bunch of machining to play with the 016 input shaft?

and yes there are two different sizes of input shaft for the 016. BTDT If i hadn't destroyed my notebook on that part in a water mess i could look up my notes on which is what. But the difference is the 016 input shafts.

MC1 pn# 046105313AD size is 18x24x26 open on both ends
MC2/3B pn# 034105313A size is 15x24x26 closed on one end

the difference is supposedly based on torsen vs locker 016.... but I've seen conflicting info about that.

[DE80q]

I'll head down to my storage unit an measure the MC1 crank I have sitting down there. Hopefully it will help.

[elaw]

Doesn't the 7a flywheel require a bunch of machining to play with the 016 input shaft?

Yeah, machining required to work with the 016, and also so you don't get a hernia when you try to lift it!

But I wasn't planning to use that FW, I was just using it as a test to see if the "snout" on the crank was the right diameter... and it's not (it's too large).

and yes there are two different sizes of input shaft for the 016. BTDT If i hadn't destroyed my notebook on that part in a water mess i could look up my notes on which is what. But the difference is the 016 input shafts.

MC1 pn# 046105313AD size is 18x24x26 open on both ends
MC2/3B pn# 034105313A size is 15x24x26 closed on one end

the difference is supposedly based on torsen vs locker 016.... but I've seen conflicting info about that.

Cool! So theoretically I can use any 016 by swapping in the correct input shaft.

[elaw]

I'll head down to my storage unit an measure the MC1 crank I have sitting down there. Hopefully it will help.

That would be great! :-)

[DE80q]

With a crappy pair of HF calipers, the snout is .162" from the FW mount face.

From what I could measure, the pilot bearing bore is approx. 1.060" from the end of the snout. The problem is I never removed the bearing from this crank, so that measurement is to the back of the bearing.

[elaw]

Great, thanks!

Edit: for anyone interested, I just measured the "snout" on the 07K engine. The OD for centering the flywheel is 43mm / 1.693". It protrudes 13 millimeters or 0.512". The hole for the pilot bearing is 20mm / 0.787" in diameter and 28mm / 1.102" deep. That means the pilot bearing hole goes (28mm - 13mm) = 15mm / 0.591" deep relative to the flywheel mating surface. That's a whole lot less than the 0.898" / 22.8mm depth of the MC bearing bore.

I suppose as far as mating a transmission goes, the really important thing is the depth and positioning of that hole relative to the mating surface for the bellhousing. But that's going to be trickier to measure. I may be getting my hands on a spare 016 tranny soon and maybe what I'll do first is measure what the transmission needs, and go from there.

[elaw]

Hey to change the subject for a moment... one thing that's been puzzling me forever with this car is a noise somewhere between a creak and a clunk (a crunk?) in the front end. It seems to happen pretty randomly, sometimes when turning the steering wheel when the car is not moving, and less often when I hit the brakes. And the best part: it seems to happen a lot more frequently when I've got the summer tires on the car.

I've checked every fastener in the front suspension 10 times. They're all tight - subframe bolts are tight, strut mounts seem in good condition. Ball joints and tie rod ends have no play, and the bolts and nuts connecting the tie rods to the steering rack are tight.

The one nagging thought I've had is when I installed the front strut inserts (Sachs), their OD at the bottom was a few mm less then the ID of the strut tube (they flare out a little at the top). And I'm wondering whether, when force is applied to the front wheels, they're shifting position a little. Does that sound plausible? I have checked and the nuts on top of the strut tubes are tight. Are there supposed to be some sort of centering rings or something on the bottoms of the inserts?

[DE80q]

That's kind of funny. I dealing with the same issue with the Bandit. I honestly have no clue what it could be. It's pretty random, and really seems to do it in parking lots when I'm turning kind of hard to get out of a spot. I starting to believe mine to be the subframe bushings, but George thinks it could be my CV on the PS, as its kind of tight to get in. I have yet to popey align my drive train, so it off a little.

[elaw]

So, changing the subject for a moment... "baby" for the first time in quite a while seems to have developed an actual problem (as in, one that I didn't create :wink:). The pressure hose from the PS pump to the rack appears to be leaking.

I was going to post a "WTB" ad in swap meet, but decided to look and Rock Auto actually claims to have brand new ones! But they have a few different types, and we all know how their parts listings can be.

Based on my lousy memory from when I installed the engine, this looks like it should be right:

...but can anyone confirm that, and/or post a photo of an OE one? I think the hose from any B3 without hydroboost brakes would be what I'm looking for.

Thanks!

[elaw]

Hey just to close the loop on my wiper problem from a while back, it did turn out to be the motor. Or more specifically, the contacts inside the motor gear housing that make it continue running in "single-sweep" and intermittent modes, and stop it in the park position.

Look at the center contact here:

You can see that thing's pretty well and goodly worn out! Also although there was a lot of it present, the grease was pretty dried out, which may have contributed to the problem.

I've installed another used wiper motor for now, but I'm thinking I might cannibalize a relay and transplant its contacts into this motor, in case the replacement one ever fails.

Here's a photo of what the contacts above make contact with:

The area where the center contact runs is pretty rough... I'm hoping that'll clean up with some emery cloth.

[elaw]

So my car seems to have developed a strange autoimmune disease where it's rejecting power steering fluid. I suspect it may be pissed off because I finally fixed the wiper motor.

I'm in the process of replacing the pump-to-rack hose now with the one in the image I posted a couple of posts back. It's not identical to the one that was in the car, but with a little creative bending does fit.

It's clear that the old pressure hose was leaking, but based on all the drips I'm seeing in various places, I think the rack itself may be leaking too.

It seems a seal kit is available to rebuild the rack for a piddling $160, but for $30 more I can get a rebuilt rack. And that leaves me with two questions... 1) what's the quality of rebuilt racks like, and are any brands any better/worse than others? RockAuto has an "AAE" rebuilt, and there doesn't seem to be much else out there.

But that brings me to my 2nd question: is there any definitive answer to whether B4 and B3 racks can interchange? Heck, ETKA shows 4 different partnumbers for B3 racks so you might think even B3 racks don't interchange!

But there seem to be more rebuilt options for B4s so if one would fit I might consider those. For example Partsgeek has a Maval rebuilt for a B4 (actually two: with and without "sports suspension"??) and I know Maval has a good reputation at least in the Saab world.

Or do all the rebuilts stink and I'd be better off buying a used one here and rebuilding it myself? Keeping in mind I've never rebuilt a PS rack before, don't have the special tools, etc.

[DE80q]

Try Joreg Automotive. George swears by them!
http://www.jorgenauto.com/rack-pinion/audi.html

[elaw]

Cool, I'll check them out!

[DE80q]

You can also get reaeal kits from them. George has tried a bunch of different companies for rebuilt racks, and said the jorgen racks are the only ones he has had luck with holding up to the mineral oil we call PS fluid.

If you would like to try to rebuild one yourself, I have one I could send you to try your hand.

[mr_aj_johnson]

Finally get back on here to check up on things and look at all the problems you've come up with! I'll be rebuilding my rack as soon as I get my butt around to finding a spare. I've got a pretty good seep but only when the fluid heats up, Gonna have to figure out a way to plumb in a cooler this winter.

[DE80q]

Finally get back on here to check up on things and look at all the problems you've come up with! I'll be rebuilding my rack as soon as I get my butt around to finding a spare. I've got a pretty good seep but only when the fluid heats up, Gonna have to figure out a way to plumb in a cooler this winter.

My offer applies to you too Aj. My spare is just sitting in my storage unit. I was actually told it didn't leak.

[elaw]

Yeah out of 3 4000q's, a 100q, and this car, this is the first time I've had a rack leak in an Audi.

OTOH it's the first Audi I've ever had that's 25 years old... maybe there's a connection between those two things?

[elaw]

Wow... two months without having to post here. That means two months without problems!

Actually the car's been fairly trouble-free for a while, but there has been one nagging issue. And I think it's one that at least one other person here (I'm looking at you, Dave) is dealing with.

The problem in question is that when turning, braking, and accelerating, but in particular when maneuvering in tight quarters like a parking lot, there would be various clunks, squeaks, and groans from the front end. It was always during a transient condition - like beginning to turn the wheel, when you first hit the brakes or gas, etc. Interestingly, it was always a lot worse with the summer tires - I attributed that to the fact they grip better.

I've probably gone in 5-10 times and checked every fastener in the front suspension, steering, and subframe, and never found a problem. Well, almost every fastener...

I'd always had it in the back of my head that the nuts that hold the strut inserts into the housings could be the issue - maybe the inserts were shifting around slightly when the loading on them changed. And after about 2 months of it being on my "to-do list", I finally got a chance to check them today.

I jacked up the car on one side, started to remove the wheel then realized I didn't need to, then lowered it just enough to so the strut was compressed slightly. That was to relieve the spring pressure on it. Then I grabbed my handy-dandy pipe wrench, checked the nut and... it wasn't loose, but sure wasn't very tight either. I was easily able to tighten it about half a turn. I lowered the car, checked the other side, it was about the same and I was able to tighten it about the same amount.

On a short test drive that included a fair amount of maneuvering in my driveway, the problem seems TONS better. I won't say it's 100% gone until I've driven the car a few days but I'm very hopeful! :-)

[savagerocco]

Always find things in the last place you look....

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