Marc's 1990 4.2L V8 Twin Turbo Coupe Quattro

Post by **HT Motorsport** » Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:37 pm

Plasma makes light work of this sort of fab eh Mark

Looks great!

I wil be at my shop tomorrow of you wanna swing by. I am leaving early afternoon though, back again Sunday mid day.....

Cannot wait to do some flowbench work

( I have your video at the shop too)

Post by **Marc** » Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:43 pm

timmmy wrote:Plasma makes light work of this sort of fab eh Mark

Looks great!

Thanks, the welds could be better but I was using 1/16 'gray' tungsten (zirconiated?) which is too thin for this sort of plate as it was all I had a halfway decent collet for. Those inverter tigs are looking better and better...

I wil be at my shop tomorrow of you wanna swing by. I am leaving early afternoon though, back again Sunday mid day.....

I'm going to try and swing by Rob's place to pic up a clutch fork but I will definitely be over at least one day this weekend.

Cannot wait to do some flowbench work

I'll drop you a line when I get a time out of R&L that I can drop in, you're welcome to come play as well.

( I have your video at the shop too)

cool

Post by **HT Motorsport** » Fri Feb 15, 2008 8:59 pm

Too late now but I have some heavier red electrodes if you have the collets to match.

BTW I have been using grade 12.9 instead of stainless for this sort of stuff recetly.

H

Post by **Marc** » Fri Feb 15, 2008 9:09 pm

yeah, 12.9 is nice, overkill strength wise for this application although it never rusts anyway so its probably a good way to go.

Post by **HT Motorsport** » Fri Feb 15, 2008 9:14 pm

The big problem I have been having with stainless beyond the fact that it is soft is that it dissimilar alloy corrodes next to mild steel making rust worse on the part next to it. plus it is soft, hence the 12.9.

interestingly grade 12.9 is a metric only thing and 8.8 is the same in SEA (very odd)

H

Post by **HT Motorsport** » Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:34 pm

Hey Mark,

Time to change the title of your thread I think....

yodasfro · Post by **yodasfro** » Fri Feb 15, 2008 10:40 pm

deleted

RS · Post by RS » Sat Feb 16, 2008 8:25 am

I second the bolt issue siding with Haydn. The stainless has a much lower strength which means you can't torque it as high as 8.8+ fasteners either. As loose bolts cause the most damage, I'd use non-stainless. With the rust issue, you know this thing is gonna eat clutches and tranny's so just replace all the bolts once a year when you pull the trans out. Adding the $5 for hardware shouldn't break the bank, but in the meantime use lots of anti-sieze to make sure they come out ok.

Metric "good" ratings are the 12.9 and 8.8. For all you non-metrics stick to grade 5 or grade 8 in standard sizes. To be honest I usually prefer grade 5 over 8 since they are more ductile. Strong impacts can sometimes snap grade 8's while grade 5's will bend and let you know there is a problem before the part falls off. Then again thats Jeep logic. Your coupe will probably see less rocks and trees.

a_CQ · Post by **a_CQ** » Sat Feb 16, 2008 12:21 pm

Wow, good progress Marc.

I have a question for you. Do you think that 01E or just any B5 chassis shifter housing could be used with 01A on the Coupe, simply swapping over the linkage arm?

I hate B3 shifter housing design. It always feels sloppy, even with a short shifter. I believe B5 units are better.

As for Pro Con 10 - just remove it all.

Post by **Marc** » Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:45 pm

Totally agree with Nate on the shifter, 01A is very straight forward and direct. I'd love to keep it but.. not gonna work on the 01E.

Brackets just came out of the oven

and in other news Mark Kramer's model plane got its first coat of paint. That things gonna be awesome:

Dye-Lohn NJ · Post by **Dye-Lohn NJ** » Sat Feb 16, 2008 1:57 pm

bump for dupont(what i personally use) and a cool project :-D
o ya and page 52!!!!!
-Dylan

a_CQ · Post by **a_CQ** » Sat Feb 16, 2008 2:51 pm

Replace the U-joint in the linkage, thats where your slop most likely is. The 01A's got the best linkage setup of all the quattro boxes.

Thanks. I'll look into that. Do you guys sell anything related?

3bAudios · Post by **3bAudios** » Sat Feb 16, 2008 5:25 pm

Today was my first time inside Mark's house to check out the planes...... they were awsome!!! your mounts came out really well, and i think im pretty sold now on trying to power coat everything on the underside of the 90 when i get there.....

scottmandu · Post by **scottmandu** » Sat Feb 16, 2008 7:36 pm

The new 6 speeds have the 01A style shifter.

RSCoupe · Post by **RSCoupe** » Sat Feb 16, 2008 8:49 pm

So Scott, will the stock 01A linkage in the CQ work, or are they just similar, and I'd still need the newer linkage?

scottmandu · Post by **scottmandu** » Sat Feb 16, 2008 9:35 pm

RSCoupe wrote:So Scott, will the stock 01A linkage in the CQ work, or are they just similar, and I'd still need the newer linkage?

Not too sure yet, I haven't had a chance to compare these 6 speeds I got from Europe to an 01A, but they look very similar.

Post by **Marc** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 9:36 am

Stopped by Rob's shop yesterday and took an 01E clutch fork off his hands and wound up taking home some bonus carbon fiber brake ducts that wouldn't fit the bumper curve on his track car project as an added bonus

Not sure if they'll fit the front end of the coupe either but worth a shot.

Anyway, here's a pic of the illusive clutch fork:

heading over to R&L engines in dover this afternoon to play with the flow bench and get some baseline numbers for the heads :woowoo:

Post by **Marc** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 1:52 pm

Just got back from the machine shop, will need to work with Haydn this week to come up with some cad for some tooling that will be needed to get the heads bolted on to the flow bench.

the machine:

the plastic adapter that goes under the head to provide a sealing surface and a place for the head bolts to draw down on (this needs to be made):

sleeve that goes below the above plastic adapter. bore needs to be the same as the engine bore so this will need to be made as well. One option is to make a sleeve that will fit inside this piece, or it can be made one piece as well:

little adapter to push down on the valve assembly. Basically the stock valves need to be fitted to the head with the factory retaining hardware but very weak springs so they can be easily depressed with the tooling. This adapter provides a place for the dial indicator to press against to provide the correct amount of lift for the given test.

this is the adapter bar that the dial indicator mounts to. this pretty much bolts up to the head, although I will need to pull two of the valve cover studs and install some slightly longer pieces:

Post by **Marc** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 6:02 pm

since it was warm today I decided to see if I could find where I left that tranny I pulled from the 5ktq when I did my first engine swap about 10 years ago into my 4000. I needed the drive flanges off the 016 to put on the 01E for my coupe. I did finally find it :-P

and these should be the flanges I need. yay!

yodasfro · Post by **yodasfro** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 6:04 pm

I think you need 4kq flanges as they use smaller CV bolts like stock CQ axles do.

Post by **Marc** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 6:05 pm

yodasfro wrote:I think you need 4kq flanges as they use smaller CV bolts like stock CQ axles do.

I suppose I should go check that....

fasterthenrs2 · Post by **fasterthenrs2** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 6:05 pm

a4kquattro wrote:Just got back from the machine shop, will need to work with Haydn this week to come up with some cad for some tooling that will be needed to get the heads bolted on to the flow bench.

the machine:

the plastic adapter that goes under the head to provide a sealing surface and a place for the head bolts to draw down on (this needs to be made):

sleeve that goes below the above plastic adapter. bore needs to be the same as the engine bore so this will need to be made as well. One option is to make a sleeve that will fit inside this piece, or it can be made one piece as well:

little adapter to push down on the valve assembly. Basically the stock valves need to be fitted to the head with the factory retaining hardware but very weak springs so they can be easily depressed with the tooling. This adapter provides a place for the dial indicator to press against to provide the correct amount of lift for the given test.

this is the adapter bar that the dial indicator mounts to. this pretty much bolts up to the head, although I will need to pull two of the valve cover studs and install some slightly longer pieces:

Cool can not wait to see difference after porting

quattrofrog · Post by **quattrofrog** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 7:26 pm

I see... so if I wrap my gearbox in a tarp and bury it in the snow..... then it will stay fresh forever! Good work Marc!

Post by **Marc** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 9:49 pm

quattrofrog wrote:I see... so if I wrap my gearbox in a tarp and bury it in the snow..... then it will stay fresh forever! Good work Marc!

neighbors probably thought I was digging up a dead body :wtf:

Post by **Marc** » Mon Feb 18, 2008 9:51 pm

s4 shifter box is in, fits *perfect*. I had to remove the studs since the CQ piece has nuts welded to the body on the inside. Still need to slide the tranny back in to see how much clearancing I will need to do for the rods to actuate smoothly tho. My adventures in digging up the 5ktq tranny didn't help though, yoda was correct, the flanges are too big, I need the 4kq variety :curses: