And here I'm excited about the HY35 I'll be running...
"If you can't find one, make one"
Dallastown, PA 1991 Audi 80 quattro (20vt project) 1991 Audi Coupe Quattro (project: my first 20v) 2007 Mitsubishi Raider(Dakota in disguise) 2019 Chevy Cruze RS hatch (wife's little red sporty car)
Hell ya rides for all. Gonna try to come camping this year in carlisle so come as me. I'm very excited to try this bw turbo. I have never had one on my own car before. Tuned a bunch, which led me to finally give up on pte forever. I will only buy big box brand again. Bw or garrett FTW. Or atleast used on a build like mine .
Edit- this is bullseye ass clowns modified but started big box bw anyway. But im getting there
Once it's running I am going to scheudle dyno time. I'd like to dyno with PTE turbo then swap and dyno again for datat purpose between graphs and logs will be nice comparison. I'm curious what makes more where
bdcoombs wrote: Once it's running I am going to scheudle dyno time. I'd like to dyno with PTE turbo then swap and dyno again for datat purpose between graphs and logs will be nice comparison. I'm curious what makes more where
But isn't the PTE not performing as it once was? Wouldn't make for a fair comparison IMO.
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UglyUr2.5L 95.5mm Stroker RubiPTE6062 Gen 2 Screamer
I am not sure. I found a loose exhaust housing. After looking at logs the spool is same if i compare to same wg spring and boost valve level setting. When I first had a smoking turbo I did not notice loose housing. And now that the car is apart I can actually inspect the shaft which feels solid with no play There are no marks on either turbine or compressor wheels/housings. So I am not sure now. I may have just had a leak or something wrong in the boost valve when I was getting later spool, unless the loose hosuing explains that too.
so I am going to use the precision since its still bolted to the manifold and see how it goes.
worst case I have the new turbo from aaron waiting.
chaloux wrote:You know it's Made in USA because it's the only damn country that would use Phillips head bolts for something important... Lol. Sorry. Looks great!
I think the same thing when I'm around airplanes and see all the phillips fasteners. I should talk to one of the design engineers and find out the reason.
The Phillips just holds it steady. Once it's starts to get tight, u don't even have to hold it while ightening nut. I'd prefer Allen head instead of the phillips but I probably won't ever take them out anyway.
I got some garage time last night. Motor is back in the car.
Looks like you might have a little boost leak at the intercooler inlet
current: -mk4 tdi wagon with some mods -TDI b3 90q, holset turbo, be strong little connecting rods! -the turbo tractor past: -11 second 90q junker -20vt swapped 90q winter beater -efi 20vt 4kq -way too many other long gone urs's, 200's 4000's, b5's
bdcoombs wrote:I will actually make Carlisle this year.. I never had a project running so early in the year.
It's about time! I think the past two years we talked about meeting up there! Glad it's running, hopefully my B3 will be done in time.
"If you can't find one, make one"
Dallastown, PA 1991 Audi 80 quattro (20vt project) 1991 Audi Coupe Quattro (project: my first 20v) 2007 Mitsubishi Raider(Dakota in disguise) 2019 Chevy Cruze RS hatch (wife's little red sporty car)
well my front tie rod/ steering rack plate didn't change anything..
still have my death wobble in the top end. I am not sure if maybe a control arm bushing is going bad and has play or whats going on.. all the tie rods are solid and new.. ball joints are new.. coils are new. I don't feel any wiggle or play at any wheels with the car on the lift. this is so strange.
hopefully today when I put it back on the lift ill ask a few friends to take a look and hopefully I find this movement...
other then that the car is TITS. TITS . TITS... i got dyno time scheduled too as its a bit scary on the street right now.. i think i prefer it strapped, then maybe ill see the movement outside the car, who knows. NOT ME UGHHHH
wheres a good place for control arm bushings? everyone using powerflex or another poly brand? Are poly the only options if i need new control arm bushing
please don't tell me 034, i will not even go there. hah
For the stamped arms, you can get a bushing from Energy Suspension. I don't remember the part# of the kit off hand though. There is also the Whiteline bushings for the stamped arms. For the Forged arms, I think powerflex is your only choice.
"If you can't find one, make one"
Dallastown, PA 1991 Audi 80 quattro (20vt project) 1991 Audi Coupe Quattro (project: my first 20v) 2007 Mitsubishi Raider(Dakota in disguise) 2019 Chevy Cruze RS hatch (wife's little red sporty car)
i have these in my car, have not driven them, but the price is great and the quality seems very good. Only available for the stamped arms. I used powerflex in the front forged arms. http://www.amazon.com/Whiteline-W51972- ... line+51972
current: -mk4 tdi wagon with some mods -TDI b3 90q, holset turbo, be strong little connecting rods! -the turbo tractor past: -11 second 90q junker -20vt swapped 90q winter beater -efi 20vt 4kq -way too many other long gone urs's, 200's 4000's, b5's
Thanks for the advice guys. I got 4 newish spair ball joints and I am pretty sure i replaced all 4 of them when I first got the car. 6 years ago now, but only a couple thousand miles. They look ok on the ground
I ended up watching the kids all day today so tomorrow I am starting early. Shit if I figure out this wobble I'll be at the dyno in the afternoon
Whats weird is I can't really tell if it's front or rear end when I'm driving. .
Wish me luck. Hopefully I'll get some videos and not another headache.