Josh's 2.5 200QT.

[chaloux]

That makes me happy. So happy

[amd is the best]

Looks great Josh! What rotors are they? A8 323mm's?

[2.5TYPE44]

They are B5 S4 rotors (321mm x 30mm)

[PRY4SNO]

Mmmm brake porn.

That'll tide me over, for now...

[2.5TYPE44]

Put the new S4 seats in and got them working. Also put in a 3 spoke steering wheel from a 97 A4. It took a bit to integrate the new clocking to where it would cancel the turn signals automatically. I think it looks much better and the wheel feels better than the skinny old four spoke. The outside diameter is smaller and the actual wheel is thicker.
The S4 seats are much more comfortable as well. Forward progress. Just waiting on some brake fluid and wheel bolts.

[ringbearer]

I am very happy with my sport wheel upgrade, the 4 spoker was dated. I bet you like the seats too! I think a photoshoot is in order this spring.

[2.5TYPE44]

I have been slowly working down my "bugs" or "to do" list. I have got most of the gauges working including the speedometer. I just need to get the oil pressure gauge going which peggs out as soon as the key is on and I want to get my tach working again. I believe I need to mount my old engine speed sensor to the block or transmission to trigger it every time it rolls a revolution. I took the car out today to see if the speedometer was working... Damn! I never knew how fast I had been playing around. I pull out of my driveway and pull out of the neighborhood... Once I confirmed the speedo was working again, I made the next u-turn to come back home and did a first through third gear rip and I busted a 100mph in seconds with ease, unintentional really as the speed limit was only 45mph. . It is really bothering me not to see oil pressure though. Lifters aren't ticking and sounds fine but still scares me driving blind. I don't want to tap into the port and run an external line for another gauge. I wish I could find the right wire responsible for the oil pressure gauge. And the car definitely needs an alignment now.

[2.5TYPE44]

Ok, got the oil pressure gauge going. Now just need to do the tach and alignment and she should be ready to play.

[2.5TYPE44]

I replaced a junk/leaky master brake cylinder from the vacuum booster conversion. Woohoo! Not a single leak on the car! I never thought I would see the day. I also polished the cluster with some headlight renew while I had it out. Not to bad considering its a car from the 80's.

[2.5TYPE44]

I put the 2 watt bulbs in the cluster and the message center works too. Almost feels new again. The light reflecting off of the chrome bezels and white face gauges gives it a nice accent.

[Aktapod]

Looks great!

[2.5TYPE44]

Thanks. I also converted to LED interior lights and the trunk too. Black seems to suck up any light, so I took care of that.

[2.5TYPE44]

Got a broken strut mount which feels and sounds horrible and is downright dangerous during boost so I got some stuff to take care of the loosey goosey stuff. Just need to clean up the A6 sub plates and pull the V8 sway bar from my other car so I can put it in while I have it all torn apart.

[ringbearer]

Nice, do you have the spacer for the bottom of the upright? That strut is shorter than OE struts.

[2.5TYPE44]

Not yet, I wanted to shorten the strut housing so I don't know and lengths right now to have spacer inserts made until I get it torn down and take some measurements. I thought about aluminum stock with delrin washers on both sides of the insert

[loxxrider]

I did this to my 635csi. It's fine to just use a cut to length piece of aluminum tube in the bottom of the strut housing.

[2.5TYPE44]

Any advantage of shortening the strut housing to match the Koni or is it better just to drop the spacer in and go?

[ringbearer]

1157 Or 1159?

1157 is too short to take all of it out of the housing.

[2.5TYPE44]

They are 8610 1436RACE

[Juizer]

Also put in a 3 spoke steering wheel from a 97 A4.

Does the B5 wheel fit to typ 44 hub as a "bolt on"? The splines are the same?
About to buy the same kind of wheel for my 200..
Cool build you have here.

[loxxrider]

Any advantage of shortening the strut housing to match the Koni or is it better just to drop the spacer in and go?

Yes absolutely. You will gain much more suspension travel by shortening the housing. The only problem is you probably wont be able to shorten it enough to match it as has already been mentioned. I think the most you can take out is about 1.5" if I remember the measurement correctly on mine. You want to section out the part below the steering arm. That way you gain some tie rod geometry back after lowering the car.

[loxxrider]

Also, I wouldn't put delrin in there. It will squish down too much after some driving. You'll end up with a rattly strut in the housing.

[ringbearer]

I am not sure of the length of the struts you are running but the 1157 without a spacer and the housing shortened will leave the strut at the top of its travel on a low UrS. The person who shared this with me said it felt like he was driving a pogo stick. He now runs 1159s as they are longer.

[loxxrider]

Of course you still have to put a spacer in there to take up the remaining space!

[2.5TYPE44]

Ok, so I will leave the delrin out beside the one the provided for the top. And yeah, I see shortening the housing under the arm would definitely bring the angle of the tie rods back close to where they were to begin with. Thanks for the advice.