4 FOX SNAKES - Ross' 20vt 4kq

[chaloux]

I have the greasable non-adjustable urq balljoints from 034. I'm not going to lie and say that I had problems with them and the boots are torn (anything sold by 034 is junk imo). Let me know if you are interested.

Excellent pitch! But I'll have to pass... lol. I'll just get some new OEM style from wherever.

[AngryTaco]

do the 19mm conversion like I did. Just use a 3/4 drill bit

[chaloux]

do the 19mm conversion like I did. Just use a 3/4 drill bit

Hmm? Details?

[AngryTaco]

They are european balljoints out of a b3 90 quattro. You can get them off of rockauto or I can source them for you. More caster too

[chaloux]

UrS strut ball joint mounts are already 19mm. So all I need to do is inseeeeeeert.

[chaloux]

So it looks like this will cost me around $250, depending on what I can get an extra set of rear 4k or front 5k 4bolt hubs for. That's for 2 90/coupe 19mm ball joints, two bearings 82/42mm, two rear 4kq axles. Obviously the urs strut housings and big brake kit help out in the cost department... unfortunately I have no money so I'll have to save my pennies so I can do it over winter.

Now I just hope that my BBK will clear the 16" Borbets.

AND if I ever want to go 5bolt, I can grab 5k front hubs and b5 A4 rear hubs... done!

[ralleyquattro]

AND if I ever want to go 5bolt, I can grab 5k front hubs and b5 A4 rear hubs... done!

Not quite.. you will actually need the 5kt hubs for the rear as well, the B5 A4 hubs will not work with the stock outer CVs, and the offset is wrong on those as well.

HTH

[chaloux]

I feel better about this now. Had a scare that my fuel rail was fucked but it just needed new crush washers because the fuel rail has a new surface. And I didn't even give you his a chance to say get a new coolant tank!

[chaloux]

Had a great fall drive on Sunday, we have some awesome roads up here. I organized a little G2G and drive for our local(ish) Audi club.

Real camera engine bay shot:

IMG_4049.JPG (431.97 KiB) Viewed 28824 times

As per the attached image, you can see that I moved the catch can closer to the block (it's under the stainless braided fuel lines). Bad idea. I definitely have way more oil shooting out there. So I got all concerned and did a compression test, 160+ across the board, #4 and #5 were slightly higher at 162ish and 165ish. The gauge was pretty inaccurate. I didn't have the throttle open, didn't think about that at the time. Anyway, I'm happy enough with those compression numbers and I'm sure it's just that there is a ton of pressure down in the CC and it's pushing oil up into the catch can, especially around corners. I've said this many times before.

Anyway, I need to change this setup. I just posted in Casey's thread and I'm thinking of doing something along those lines. I'd like 2 vents on the valve cover and the block vent to go up into the valve cover as well.

I'd like barbed fittings, what is the easiest way to get them into/onto the valve cover? Threaded? I am having a hard time finding big enough AN 90* fittings... frustrating. If I had the patience to go through Hank's thread I would, but that's a task and a half.

[chaloux]

Got it. Getting three of these:



And three of these, since I already have the socketless hose:

[PRY4SNO]

Give this a skim, the integrated thread search on this site is pretty dandy.

search.php?keywords=catch+can&t=65&sf=msgonly

[SEStone]

Put a good sized vent on the valve cover and move your catch can to the passenger side of the engine bay. It's getting filled with slosh right now, and the U-turn everything has to make to get to the other side does a hell of a good job keeping the slosh at bay.

[my2000apb]

Put a good sized vent on the valve cover and move your catch can to the passenger side of the engine bay. It's getting filled with slosh right now, and the U-turn everything has to make to get to the other side does a hell of a good job keeping the slosh at bay.

^^^THIS

pass side CC location helps A TON!!

[chaloux]

Okay so should I still put the valve cover vents on/pointing to the driver's side then? And loop them back? Or do my original plan but with the cc on the passenger side and the vents pointing to it?

[chaloux]

Also... If the block breather just goes into the valve cover why do I need to put the cc on the passenger side? Wouldn't that only be If I was keeping the block breather as the only vent into the cc?

[chaloux]

Okay! I finished what I think should be the final iteration of the pcv system. I upsized the drain to 1/2" id as well. So far so good, nothing but vapors coming out but I haven't given it a go through in the twisties yet.

Long run!


Bigger drain


Here you can see the 90 I put on the drain in order to keep it up high. I may build a bracket or something for it eventually and put the wires behind it. For now the house clamp is holding great lol

[loxxrider]

Definitely a much better spot. Mine was all the way in the passenger fender up by the washer fluid bottle. The hose to it went up high though, and that's what really matters if you don't have a drain on it (like mine).

[chaloux]

Saweet! Seems to not throw oil anymore! The only problem is that I got a serious offer on the car. Ugh my emotions

[WOMBAT]

Good news on the breather! Not sure about the offer, good luck with that haha

[ringbearer]

That is what happens when you put it up for sale!

lolz

Raise the price

[chaloux]

Passed the twistie check! Well, it was wet pavement so not quite as much lateral G... but wheelspin in third is pretty ridiculous I guess.

[WOMBAT]

Where are you draining back to?

[2.5TYPE44]

You'll probably look back and say "damn, I wish I didn't sell that car!"

[ralleyquattro]

Sell it only if the $$ is going towards an Urquattro..

[loxxrider]

Sell it only if the $$ is going towards an Urquattro..

I totally agree. I still think about that time I drove yours and it puts a big smile on my face every time! For me, the UrQ (with 20vt) is the quintessential Quattro. Then T44's