Hanks URQ 2.6L Autopsy

[Dave]

Ferodo DS2500's.

thats what i have in my porsche calipers Hank.

[a_CQ]

Step #1 - add COOLING - so easy and so cheap. Get some ducting 2-3" and stuff in there.

As for pads, you're mostly going ot hear subjective opinion but that's fine too. Personally I've been using Hawk pads and like the. Unlike Mark who needs as much as possible(DTC70), I've been using HT-10, BUT even with stock Porsche Textar pads I was ok__early on__in my tracking days.

With stock Audi calipers I had issues with burning up dust seals on the pistons - this was on my B6 Avant(fronts). That was with HP+ pads too. I also used Ferodo2500s on that car and didn't like them at all.

One last thing to consider when swapping pads back and forth, I would make an effort to have the same brand for the street and track otherwise you may run into an issue that Greg mentions. When I switched from Textar to Hawk, it took me a whole day at the track plus driving for nearly 30 miles with my left foot on the brake to bed them in properly. There is nothing worse than trying to drive on the track with your brakes at less than 100%. it takes away your confidence and concentration. If you get sometyhing different from what you have now it wouldn't be a bad idea to just turn the rotors down slightly.

I have a set of Hawk Blue rear pads, brand new, that should work on your rear calipers...been trying to sell them forever. If you want them, LMK and maybe I can mail them out with your crank, then just thorw me some money later for the pads. I'll never use them.

[audifreakjim]

I use Porterfield R4's, partly because they are local and I can just swing by as needed.

Ducting, that is something I have been pondering, someone have any good examples they want to share in another thread?

[a_CQ]

Jim, I have no pics, I think?, but basically I ran ducts from the lower outter bumper grilles to as close as you can of inside the rotor. Most rotors draw air from inside the hub and expel it out via the vents. I zip tied the ducting along and lastly zip tied to the leading arm of the control arm, on both end. Get it as close to the CV boot as possible without them rubbing...much. I used 3" but it's easier with smaller ducting. Also be sure to turn your wheel left-right and make sure it doesn't interfere with the tire/wheel....probably don't have to worry too much for full lock turns as those you'll generally do at much lower speeds....go about 180* each way from center on the wheel, that should give you enough clearance.

[audifreakjim]

Got it, I just did some searching and see exactly what you are talking about. Looks like I might have one more project to finish before next weekend. As long as I can stop faster thank Hank I will be happy.

[Quattro v1.0]

I guess what we should get back to is the fact that Hank is getting ready for a ACNA School with plenty of track time - NOT a race.

If you are over driving your brakes during your first school you are either doing something wrong - or you are just that daggum good at everything your brakes have now become the weak link. I think the weak link is going to be finding an instructor that can stomach umpteen run sessions in a 500HP UrQ beside a student that hasn't been instriucted before lol

Im not saying you shouldn't be prepared, but keep it in perspective.

[audifreakjim]

Very true, Sean. I believe he should have some race pads and good fluid for the event. Even on low boost and driving very smooth, the brakes are going to be busy with that much turbo. Ducting + street pads is another option, but I don't think that will go very far.

[Hank]

Thanks for the recommendations guys.

The question is Sean, is that instructor going around with me umpteen times around going to be you?

500hp URQ isn't giving hte car hte credit it deserves. That is even conservative for wheel hp after my fueling upgrade is done tonight. 700hp is more like it

[Quattro v1.0]

*calling Deeno* Um, Green and the Iroz boy in the same run group? :barf:

Hank, you have such a nice interior in there now lol

[loxxrider]

My car has Porterfields on it as well (Boxster S calipers/ A8 rotors). I can't really comment on how they are on the track. All I can say is that they are OK for dd duty, but definitely do not have much cold bite. When they get warm though, the damned things are like anchors. Pad wear has been good thus far too. They look like they did the day I put them on. The downside is they tend to squeak and they are like $200 a set I believe.

[audifreakjim]

quattro v1.0 wrote:[/quote]

*calling Deeno* Um, Green and the Iroz boy in the same run group? :barf:

Hank, you have such a nice interior in there now lol[/quote]

Hehe, the Iroz boy, lol. I wish we would be in the same group, but I have a feeling that will not be the case at least on Saturday.

[a_CQ]

Sean, you're somewhat right, but still, 500hp is 500hp. I had issues with brakes on my Coupe on my very first event. We were at Grattan. Jeff Lapp was my instructor and I had fade most of Saturday. Then Nathan gave me a used set of Hawk Blues he had in his track box and I swapped them in Sat night before dinner. Driving over to dinner at dusk was awesome...sparks shooting out my front wheels every time I went to brake...but anyways, my Sunday was awesome, night and day difference.

I also don't think Hank will be just an average student that's never done anything remotely like this. Still, his primary focus should be to listen what his instructor has to say...and that instructor should not be afraid no matter the power of the car or lack of skills of the student...otherwise, they shouldn't be instructing. I'd have no problem right-seating Hank...wish I could actually. It would be humbling, for both of us, I'm sure=)

[Hapster]

500hp, 700hp stopping is still going to be an issue. I'm running Pagid Blacks for the street and Pagid Orange for the track in the front and Porterfield R4S in the rear on the Wintah Beatah. That car's weight is down to 3100 lbs. For brakes it runs Boxster S calipers with JHM 321x30 2 piece slotted rotors in the front and B5 S4 calipers and JHM 300x22 2 piece and slotted rotors in the rear. I'd rate the brake effectiveness of this setup right on par with the Monster's 4-way BBK. The other thing is the initial bite with the Blacks is fabulous even on a cold day. Just ask my wife ;>)

Hap, with some kind of brakin action near Everboost, Maguire

[Hank]

I am going to dump my checklist for next Friday deadline of going to Vegas. I have to leave at 7am on Friday so that give me seven full days.

- change tranny fluid to motul 300 gear.
- change rear diff fluid to motul 300 gear
- put in larger -10th lines from the filter to the rail as the current is still showing a slight pressure drop at 90psi base plus 33psi manifold.
- check rear passenger strut for function. Figure out wherr that Damn clunk is coming from
- put metal master pads in the rear
-make stainless lines for the front brakes and verify that the squishy pedal is indeed the lines not a mc problem.
- tie breather into the intake to keep smell out of my cabin.
- fix small coolant leak at water manifold. Looks to be an ring issue.
-deal with valve cover dribble of oil.
- weld tabs on radiator for more efficient shroud work on the radiator.
- Radiator shroud
- change oil and filter.
- replace spline drive lug nuts with standard 17mm ones..
- find a fix for my floppy mirrors.
- my review mirror decided to fall off after 30 years of use on that fateful launch that ate the rear axles and diff mount
- wire front blinkers for tech

the following are less urgent but would be nice pre trip
-fix exhaust rub at 3700rpm-4300rpm
-mount gopro mount
- realm driving lights
-install HIDS


Think that covers it. I have driven the car fairly hard and sideways with new summers on there... the rear axles seem to be holding.

[my2000apb]

when my mirrors were rattling a bit, i jsut jammed a screw driver in there to make the gap larger and injected a bunch of black rtv in there, let it mostly dry then pulled the driver out and they are all secure now, and you cant even tell

[a_CQ]

check rear passenger strut for function. Figure out wherr that Damn clunk is coming from

What strut mounts you have there? If stock, be sure that funky nut is bolted on tight. If QRSport by chance, check the play on the bearing. Lastly, make sure the strut sollar nut that holds the shock in place is TIGHT. Big pipe wrench...add some blue loctite too.

make stainless lines for the front brakes and verify that the squishy pedal is indeed the lines not a mc problem.

Be sure to bleed the brakes well before you do any of that, if you haven't already. Use cheap Valvoline fluid from FLAPS. I use it all the time even for the track.

[Dave]

This list is a cake walk compared to the Battleborn GTG!

[Hank]

Tim doesn't that make the mirror fixed for always without adjustment?

Peter the strut mounts are brand new comp mounts with sphericals bearing...

The shock piston has an odd mark ill post later. Almost looks likey link is bent. It passes the hand compression test but something clunks over the railroad tracks back there.

Noted in the bleed. The links are way to long atm. I want to replace them regardless.. as now they have a loop in them.

[Quattro v1.0]

:stupid:

The Valvoline DOT4 Syn is great fluid.

[a_CQ]

Got ya...check them anyways. takes one hard blow to f-it up...one of mine is busted...but it's only a mm of play at most. Realistically, that shouldn't make the noise you would hear in the car.

[Hapster]

I run Motul RBF 600 in both my cars.

Hap, with some kind of Mo near Everboost, Maguire

[a_CQ]

Hap, Castrol SRF or bust.

[my2000apb]

Tim doesn't that make the mirror fixed for always without adjustment?
.

is the mirror housing loose or the mirror in the housing, my housing was loose, and there is still room for housing to move if its pushed or whatnot, the rubberstuff behind it can still compress and expand a bit

[Hank]

Does anybody know where a guy can get the little plastic sliders that go on the rails of the seats to keep them from rocking? I need a couple of them for the URQ. I have to suspect that the 4kq is the same.

[death 4kqt]

i bought some for my 4k at the dealer.