I think he's left the building


Should look like this









85oceanic wrote:You can also repair it through the starter hole, that its what I did.

Mcstiff wrote:85oceanic wrote:You can also repair it through the starter hole, that its what I did.
FRCFD5 wrote:heh, kind of reminds me of this joke...
After nearly forty years in practice as a gynecologist,
John decided he had enough money to retire and take up
his real love, auto mechanics. He left his practice,
enrolled in auto mechanics school, and studied hard.
The day of the final exam came and John worried if he
would be able to complete the test with the same
proficiency as his younger classmates. Most of the
students completed their exam in two hours. John, on
the other hand, took the entire four hours allotted.
John tossed and turned in bed that night, dreading the
next morning when the exam scores would be returned.
The following day, John was delighted and surprised to
see a score of 150% for his exam.
John spoke to his professor after class. "I never
dreamed I could do this well on the exam. But tell me,
how did I earn a score of 150%?"
The professor replied, "I gave you 50% for perfectly
disassembling the car engine. I awarded another 50% for
perfectly reassembling the engine. I gave you an
additional 50% for having done all of it through the
muffler."







chaloux wrote:Vids
it doesn't mean it is... apparently they can take a beating... we'll see later on if it causes errors once it gets tuned...mushasho wrote:So in retrospect a couple of myths have been rectified...
1) A SouthBend Clutch in a UrS Car can only fit one way. There is "apparently" a 1,000 mile break-in period on Full Faced clutches (I've always done 500 miles and only did 250 when I did this clutch with the banged up flywheel and had ZERO slip). While pucked clutches "apparently" only have 0-100 mile break-in...
2) A missing Flywheel Trigger PIN will prevent VEMS from recording BOTH Primary and Secondary events when recording a trigger log (can be due to the older version of VEMS I'm running)
3) A sensor if tests out perfect and the wiring is good to and from the ecu, trust it... Example, Just cuz a sensors appears to be badit doesn't mean it is... apparently they can take a beating... we'll see later on if it causes errors once it gets tuned...
A couple of Myths have been confirmed too...
1) H&R Green "Race" springs do indeed SUCK... broken passenger front
2) Towing guys SUCK... broken oil temp sensor
3) I indeed OWN an Audi that kept me busy as one would expect...
Plan: Drive it everyday allowing existing disc to wear on the NEW flywheel surface now that the 2 oil pan bolts in place which should keep things dry... While keeping the faith that it'll work out...


chaloux wrote:Wtf did you record that with...
So the clutch is slipping after all that?

mushasho wrote:1) A SouthBend Clutch in a UrS Car can only fit one way...
mushasho wrote:3) Just cuz a sensors appears to be badit doesn't mean it is... apparently they can take a beating...

EDIGREG wrote:Glad you got it running again, sucks on the clutch though.mushasho wrote:1) A SouthBend Clutch in a UrS Car can only fit one way...
A clutch disk can be installed backwards. On a "UrS-fitment" style disk, the disk will slide on the splines either way, but one side of the disk protrudes so it makes it pretty obvious. On a 7A style clutch disk, the disk is symmetrical and can easily be installed backwards. Which is why the disks are usually marked "flywheel side" or "pressure plate side".mushasho wrote:3) Just cuz a sensors appears to be badit doesn't mean it is... apparently they can take a beating...
That is just a metal cover on the actual sensor - magnet protrudes from the center under the cover...they're pretty hard to actually break.
Quattro-JC wrote:Lets just hope that clutch disk 'fixes' itself. I suspect it's not (just) the flatness, but some residual oil that yer seeing. Some guys say once you have any signif oil contam to toss the disk for sure, others say you can 'wear it off' if its not too bad, so lets hope for the latter.
