UK CQ20V to 32VT

[kieron_32v]

Thought Id start a thread over on this forum now, as every other forum im on seems to be dying off...

So, I bought this CQ20V back in late 2007.

I left it as It was when I bought it for about 6 months or so before I started working on it.

Did the usual stuff to it, upgraded suspension mounts, bushes, lowering springs, tubular manifold and de-cat etc etc.

Eventually put some DIY coilovers with koni dampers, 034 injector kit, solid engine mounts, and decent tyres on it.



Looked like this for a while.

[kieron_32v]

Drove the car like that for a while and decided it was time for more powers!!

Started collecting parts for 20vt conversion.

Pulled the head and had it refurbed with new guides, seals etc.

Was ready to start building her back up when I decided that was waaay to easy and boring as everyone does that...

So I bought a ABZ for cheap and cleaned it up a little.

Pulled the 7A block out along with the 5 speed 01A.



Chopped out the battery box, radiator mounts, and abs pump brackets from under the bonnet to make room.

Threw the engine in with the 034 mounts, flexplate insert and southbend clutch.




Made a mount for a re-used VR sensor from the 7a block to read the 60-2 on the flexplate through the existing hole in the 6 speed 01E im now using.




Cleaned and painted the corroded and dirty inlet manifold and cam covers.

.


Wired in the engine to 034 IIc ECU using original ABZ loom spliced into harness, using original beefed up power feeds from 7A where I could and added a couple of relays and feeds where I needed too. Fuel pump is stock 7A item, relayed directly to the battery which is now in the boot(trunk).

[kieron_32v]

Theres more build pics in here http://www.flickr.com/photos/52527072@N02/sets/72157624496294941/with/4843475674/

and my build thread over on s2forum http://www.s2forum.com/forum/showthread.php?t=36237



First start

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7aub4Id4V_k[/youtube]


Idling with no exhaust.

[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rxEHPwqOr3Y[/youtube]
[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8V-Meub3z7A[/youtube]

As you can see in the video the wiring was still a mess and just tied together to see if it would run. After confirming that I tidied it all up and started working on getting everything plumbed in.

Build my own exhaust, 2.5" from each bank with flexi's into a single 3" system with 2 boxes and exiting in front of rear wheel.



[youtube]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_AarBZ06aoM[/youtube]

Had to relocate the oil filter due to the original positioning on the block interfering with proper mounts.

[PRY4SNO]

Interesting project and body colour! Nice to see you posting here too

What are your eventual hp/tq goals?

[kieron_32v]

Interesting project and body colour! Nice to see you posting here too

What are your eventual hp/tq goals?

Thanks!

I have a Garrett ta51/t66 turbo which should good for 700+ up at about 20psi.

Current plan is to get the car running and make as much power/torque as I can that the clutch will handle, which is rated to 525ft/lbs I think.

I have some more updates to post to where the car is right now. Will put then up tomorrow.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk 2

[kieron_32v]

I Also fitted some interior upgrades while I was working on the car.

3 Spoke wheel, Black carpet, black trims, dark blue headliner and a glass pre-select sunroof, along with black leather seats with heated fronts. Lovely jubly.

I aslo had an electric powersteering setup ala MR2.

I had originally toyed with the idea of turboing the engine while I was still in the build, and actually impulse bought a Garrett GT37 off a truck, but quickly sold it for a profit as it simply wouldnt flow enough to be efficient as a single at this displacement. I then thought about twin turbos, using impreza or similar turbos which can be had pretty cheap from people that have gone bigger on theirs.
I soon talked myself out of it and got the car running as it was in NA form, and it was great.

I drove the car with the ABZ as it was for about 5-6 months and then got hungry for more power, at this point I reckon it must have been 315 320hp approx with the open intake and exhaust and standalone.


I took the car off the road and it was once again into build / project territory, which is in my opinion at least 50% of the fun.

I got a sweet deal on a freshly rebuilt garrett ta51 with a t66 compressor and divided t4 exhaust housing which should good for 20 psi which is what I reckon the limit of the rods will be close to should do close to 700hp and 550ft/lbs but will be mapped to what my clutch or possibly gearbox will handle initially.


I will be building my own manifolds, intake and exhaust, and the turbo is currently planned to fit on the left hand side of the block with both banks joining up with a x-over pipe. Ive already started on the exhaust manifolds, had some flanges cut and got hold of some sch10 bends measured up and ready to cut when I get time.

Also, supporting mods will be:

2.5bar map sensor in 034 IIc ECU
044 fuel pump, mounted in 034 enclosed surge tank fed by original intank pump
700cc injectors
034 CAN wideband with innovate display and autotimer unit
ARP headstuds
and lots of other expenses as needed.

Some pictures as promised.

If my other half knew how much i'd spent on this car over the years, she'd go mental :tank

To be fair, I don't really fancy knowing either!

Today I swapped out map sensor in the ecu for a 2.5bar one so it can see boost, I only had a 1 bar in there with the car being NA originally.



All back together ready to be closed up:




Also built up the fuel pump into the swirl pot/tank




Pulled the heads the other week, bores look good and compliment the good even compression figures I got before i tore it apart. Will just be cleaning everything up, new vsos and a light skim. Maybe guides if theyre worn, but not stripped the valves out yet.

Measured up the pipe elbows and flanges ready to cut and weld up. Also had to swap some studs round on the heads to match the 16vt flanges.



Also, on the intake side, I got some velocity stacks from Ross machine racing along with their oval intake tubing to build my own intake to save some room under the bonnet.

They are a cnc work of art.






And a couple of shots of the expensive jigsaw puzzle to build.










Peace.

[EDIGREG]

welcome! cool project

[kieron_32v]

Pulled the engine and gearbox out this week. Will be selling my 01E cbl as I have picked up an allroad tdi box that has had a 4.11 diff put in it. Has wide 1st gear and flexible shaft so should be a better match for the engine. Just need to figure out inner cvs as they use tripod type joints.

Work has been progressing on the manifolds, need welding up now when I get chance to borrow my pops welding gear.

I need to find or make a front pulley locking tool to change the t belt. While the block is out I'm pulling the oil pan so I can drill and tap an oil drain for the turbo.

I've stripped the heads down and they will be sent to the shop to be checked over and cleaned up. Then it's back together when my reinz gaskets turn up. Stacked headgaskets clamped down with arp studs.

While the car is apart again I may end up refurbing the front subframe as it's looking a little tired. I stripped and painted the rear a couple years ago and it's held up well so front needs the same doing. Also want to look at getting some helper springs in the coil overs as they were noisy without them, the springs are too short. Also been working on a front brake upgrade with e38 brembos and ford focus discs.

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk

[kieron_32v]

Sent from my HTC One X+ using Tapatalk

[kieron_32v]

Bit of an update, said id get a few things done in the next week in my last post, nearly a month ago.
Finally got the motivation this weekend to crack on with the exhaust manifolds.

Cut all the bends to size and welded them up.

Still need to finish off one of them as I was a bit shaky at half 8 last night after hardly eating all day so welding was getting a bit tricky. Will finish it up in the week.

Chop chop chop



Tack tack tack




Weld weld weld




Finished product (for now)



Obviously need to cut out and add a flange to the turbo later on when i figure that out, but pretty sure that ill add 2.25" vbands and run those to each scroll on the turbo.


Pulled the engine out a few weeks back.


Chased the threads and fitted ARP head studs ready to accept the new head gaskets and cleaned up heads.


Head wise, still not taken them to a shop to have them looked at, but im swaying towards just giving them a good wash. Ill check the head surface to see if theyre still flat and if they are i dont see any point having them skimmed just for the hell of it and I dont want to be dealing with more compression. And i'm a tight ****. Valve guides are a bit loose, but I think they're still in factory spec.
I had new ones put in on my 20V head when I was going down that route and when I measured the play when I was reassembling it, they were still looser than i expected.

Got the engine on that stand and flipped it over to whip the sump and oil pan off. Needed to do this as I need to drill the block for a turbo oil return. Theres a nice boss on the left side of the block so thats where that will be going.

[kieron_32v]

Found a place local to me that skimmed the heads for much cheaper than everywhere else wanted.

So I can start rebuilding them now.

Just patching up a plastic box in the garage so I can soak them in some fuel to loosen up the carbon and then will give them a jetwash to clean out the crud.


Then the daunting task of lapping in 32 valves. Not looking forward to that. :corey:

Then I can chuck the rest of it together and get the heads back on and start fabricating the rest of the turbo manifolds. Need to get the block in my garage so I dont have to drive 40 mins to work on it.

Also got to figure out how to get the ****ing crank pulley off. Will probably end up fabricating a holding tool for it as no one wants to lend me the proper tool for it.

[PRY4SNO]

RE: crank tool: block of wood (2x4) between the block and crank.

Done.

[PRY4SNO]

Or this:

http://www.audizine.com/forum/showthrea ... o-problem!!

[kieron_32v]

Picked up a crank lock tool while I was over in the states in Feb earlier this year (for 50$).

Slowly been making progress, got one head built up and installed and starting other when I have time. Also drilled the block for the turbo oil drain.

In the meantime, a magazine in the UK did a feature on my car in na form over 18months ago and it finally got published so here it is if any of you fancy a read.

Will get some progress pics up when I'm not on my phone.

[attachment=-1]IMAG0206.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]IMAG0207.jpg[/attachment][attachment=-1]IMAG0208.jpg[/attachment]

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[PRY4SNO]

Your car makes me almost start to like that colour... wish I could say the same about mine! haha

Congrats on the magazine spread

[kieron_32v]

I love the colour, only one I've ever seen in person this colour in the UK, I read an article about one before I bought mine but that's it.
I had contemplated a colour change as I'm about to have an rs2 replica bumper and b4 front end sprayed along with wings/fenders resprayed to go on.

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[kieron_32v]

So, magazine article has spurred me on to crack on with this build now as it had slowed almost to a halt.
Finished building up the other head, and now has been fitted with ARP studs and torqued down.




Had a good clean out inside the block from the drilling/taping for the turbo drain, and Ive now fitted the upper part of the oilpan / sump with new gasket.


Also got an RS2 replica style front bumper, which has had a couple of repairs done and is now in high buld ready for a rub down and new paint.
And just scored a pair of ellipsoids on ebay for £240 posted.
Now boths heads are back on I can start with some exhaust fabrication. Woo.:auto:
And also landed a new job last week, with much more time off with shiftwork!
Kieron

[kieron_32v]

Small update, but still making progress.

Finally managed to get the crank pulley off. put the front belt cover back on temporarily so I could use the crank lock tool i bought while I was in the states, 3/4" breaker bar and a bit of stainless pipe, bit of wood and some female ballast stopping the engine tipping on the stand and it came undone with a fair amount of effort, but I was expecting more trouble so Im glad its off now!




Changed the front crank seal, mostly as a matter of precaution but glad I did as there seemed to be a fair bit of oil behind the pulley. Did the oil pump drive seal too while I was in there, same size. Same method.



Got a new rear crank seal from GSF too. Not listen on their site and audi will only sell you the complete housing, but its the same size as the V6's and 1.9tdis and loads of other stuff. Result :thumbs:

Ive installed new pulleys on the timing belt, hit a bit of a snag on the tensioner though. It pivots around a pin which had a plastic bush and possibly a needle bearing, its pretty much seized solid so need to source a replacement. I was going to change the damper spring unit anyway as its only ~£50 but audi want about £90 just for the arm assembly with the bushes, so trying to get a second hand one. The front end of this engine was pretty gunked up and corroded when I bought it so i suspect its been seized for a while.

This bit.



Thats probably going to hold me back for a while so I want to start cracking on with the exhaust manifolds. Need to order some new gaskets so I can bolt them down and start mocking things up.


Also on the look out for a B4 bonnet localish to me.

Do I need any other bits to convert from B3 to B4 front end? I have headlights and trims. Is the lock carrier etc? compatible?

[PRY4SNO]

You'll need the 3pc hood support for the b4 conversion.

[kieron_32v]

Update:

Got the tensioner pivot second hand for £15 from a breaker in Germany. Mine was absolutely solid compare to this one, so i'm surprised my belt stayed on as long as it did!!

Anyway, ive cracked on with the rebuild. One head is now fully built up, cams timed and front cover installed with new seals.






Lower oil pan is also fitted now.



I have a full set of ABZ timing tools now, front pulley holding tool and the two cam fixtures, and they set me back a grand total of about £65 which is an absolute bargain, thought id end up having to make do. Cheers to spink for the cam tools.



Lifters from other head are soaking in oil over night after being in the kerosine bath for a few weeks to clean them out, then i'll throw them in tomorrow and get the cams in. I need a new water pump too then I can install the new belt and button it all up.






Need to pick up a couple more camshaft seals tomorrow too, only 2 included in headset when 4 required.

[kieron_32v]

Both heads built now, cams timed and fitted new water pump, thermostat and tensioner pulleys with new belt. Given the Belt covers a quick refresh with some matt black too as they were a bit tatty.

Thrown the alternator back on after giving the idler bearing a clean and regrease as it sounded rough as ****holes and audi want £80 for one as its part of the housing too, cant just press it out and fit a new one.

My engine stand is looking a little strained, got some serious lean going on. Bought an engine crane so I can get it off the stand and get the flywheel off to do the rear seal and start knocking the exhaust together.
Need to refit oil filter plumbing today to see what room ive got to work with then I can begin.

Picture dump for anyone that cares.

[kieron_32v]

Where I'm at now (30 July)

Since last update:

Changed rear crank seal.



Installed flywheel/flexplate adaptor and trued it up checking run-out.



Started some welding,

Turbo oil drain flange -10AN



I put the box and engine together too just to make sure there wasnt any issues there and to check out what I need to do to get a working crank sensor. The Allroad one that came with the box doesnt have enough depth strangely, and the butchered 7A one I was running on the CBL box is too long. So need to make an adaptor to get something to work or find a universal one to fit.



I'm also going to try and use the stock S2 shift linkage, this later 01E doesnt have all the bolting provisions for the top cradle part of the linkage to bolt onto, It will need 1 hole drilling and tapping in the gearbox and some sort of bracket to join up another but should be doable. I was going to get the newer style b5/b6 linkage and adapt that, but going to try this first for simplicity sake. If I dont like it it wont be hard to sell it on anyway and the A6 linkage is cheap.

I was hoping to have a lot more welding done by now, Ive borrowed my old mans Tig but it keeps crapping out on me, the trigger keeps inverting and sometimes wont arc up at all. Really annoying when it decided the trigger is an off switch as your pulling away, made some right mess. Probably going to splash out an an AC/DC Tig set, investment for the future, got an inlet manifold to make later...

Ive made the bits to do the turbine inlet merge keeping it divided.

Tubing is 2", crushed and then cut at an angle to meet the divide and sits pretty good over the inlets, will just tidy up the ports to smooth it out when its finished.

Its not quite symmetrical I know, but it'll work.







All for now, until I have a working welder again. I can fit the clutch in the meantime, and I need to go back to the car and put the front subframe and suspension back on to get the car moved.

[kieron_32v]

Clutch refitted, and gearbox now back on.



Found a solution for the crank sensor, with the spacer the allroad box came with on the sensor removed and a little trimming on the sensor body itself (plastic ring for an oring) the allroad sensor ends up with around a 40thou air gap which is pretty much spot on.

Only issue is the sensor uses a newer style 3 pin plug so ill have to modify my engine harness, but no biggies as the pins should just swap into the new style housing. I'll post a pic when I get it later in the week to show what I mean.


Ive taken a bit of a gamble and started working on the turbo pipework. Studies lots of photos ive taken and I hope I can get away with this placement. Nothings more than tacked for now anyway, and i'm just playing with the bits ive got to see what I can do.


Turbo flange is braced directly to the passenger side manifold and i'll add a brace to the valve cover when I've ordered some rod ends.







Started welding the downpipe flange too but ive run out of gas.



Gonna pick up some more argon tomorrow hopefully and get some more done, but its all happening now.

Welds arent too pretty as im getting used to my new machine but getting better each time.

[ChrisAudi80]

Major respect for your build.

Just a question, looking at your EM under the turbo, wouldn't be slightly better for flow if you had a smoother radius going out of the EM to the pipe to the turbo? What if you took a tee and cut and sectioned it to the log? I am just worried about the sharp edges inside the manifold.
Might restrict flow and create hot spots.

I like the idea of having one bank of the V reaching one scroll sooner than the other. Might start spooling sooner.

[kieron_32v]

As I said, nothing's been fixed in place yet, but I know what you mean. I was kind of thinking a lot earlier on in the build about this and I was thinking of adding t3 flanges on the logs and then routing from them, but that means adding to the cost and bill of materials.

To be fair though, I've seen plenty of guys do similar stuff on American v8s. And this is hardly going to be a ragged edge project.