Hey it's a slow project and I told someone at Carlisle it would run by the end of summer, so I have less than a month to make it fire on starting fluid haha. It's getting along pretty well now. Basically I need that wiring, downpipe, fuel lines, brake lines, pads and rotors, power steering bracket and the vac boost swap. I think. I have work off the whole Labor Day week so hopefully I can get a good bit done.
I have some trick swivels and extensions that I use at work too so that should make it, oh, 1000 times easier. I'll have to sort vac lines too, but I don't think that should be too bad. Where can I get a 200 20v throttle cable? And no input on what knock sensor to use?
Hmm, not sure on the throttle cable. Maybe there is a chance somewhere like RockAuto has a new one? If not, then I guess you'll have to keep an eye out for junked ones...
Since it is VEMS, I don't see why it'd matter which sensor you use as long as it bolts up...
-Chris
'91 Audi 200 20v - Revver/BAT project '91 Audi 200 20v Avant '01 Anthracite M5 '90 M3 '85 Euro 635csi '12 X3 E34 530i (maybe rear-mount soon)
Does VEMS even properly use knock sensors with I5 motors? I just used the stock 3b ones. Bolt through factory audi sensors are better than the one piece orange ones if that means anything
-Phil 87 5ktq - 20vt 91 v8 5spd - Why? 05 S4 - Gone and very much so forgotten 14 TDI Touareg
So I've decided to make a set of "knock ears" instead of wiring in to VEMS (according to Marc, they're disabled in current firmware anyway).
Today I bought a roll of fuel line, Wilwood proportioning valve and a splitter for at the rear of the car. Tomorrow I should be able to get some work done finally.
Still looking for a stock 200 20v throttle cable and a power steering bracket.
Ok I need some help here. I need a pinout of the 7a hall sensor, the wiring color ID for the 60-2 rear crank seal and a 3B TPS pinout. I've been searching and searching but I can't seem to find these.
Distributor as you're looking down on it left-right min9v-12 in, sensor out (0-5v) and then ground. Red/black stripe should be 12v ref, green signal, remaining is ground on the pigtail (don't remember the color off the top of my head, would have to look at my car)
-Shawn C. 2001 S4 6spd Avant blk/blk - stock daily 2002 01E B6 A4 Built FYF, Built 1.8T, HX35 ~330whp 1989 MC-1 200 Avant- MS1 -Gone but will never forget her lessons 1987 5ktq Sedan - Best $500 beater ever
According to the Bently (courtesy of Tim and Toph) it needs a minimum of 12v in and outputs a 5v signal so I dont know if the hall sensor will work right with just 5v in but both 20v and 20v spit out a 0 air gap 5v window signal so I'd guess you still want 12v in.
Where does VEMS say to power the hall from?
-Shawn C. 2001 S4 6spd Avant blk/blk - stock daily 2002 01E B6 A4 Built FYF, Built 1.8T, HX35 ~330whp 1989 MC-1 200 Avant- MS1 -Gone but will never forget her lessons 1987 5ktq Sedan - Best $500 beater ever
Yeah, the hall sensor will take 12v down to a 5v output but the sensor needs at least 9v or you're going to get no/a bad trigger signal. Just power the 12v in from any switched, preferably fused source and take the output and ground to VEMS.
The hall sensor only has one output, the middle wire. It takes a 12v input and then a ground and signal to the ECU.
-Shawn C. 2001 S4 6spd Avant blk/blk - stock daily 2002 01E B6 A4 Built FYF, Built 1.8T, HX35 ~330whp 1989 MC-1 200 Avant- MS1 -Gone but will never forget her lessons 1987 5ktq Sedan - Best $500 beater ever
pilihp2 wrote:Vems econoseal on 3b on mine. Running 5v to hall sender if that helps you at all...
So VEMS powers the Hall sensor and all? Jeez, real standalone must be nice
I assumed all VAG hall sensors would be the same but that's what you get for assuming, glad Phil set you straight!
-Shawn C. 2001 S4 6spd Avant blk/blk - stock daily 2002 01E B6 A4 Built FYF, Built 1.8T, HX35 ~330whp 1989 MC-1 200 Avant- MS1 -Gone but will never forget her lessons 1987 5ktq Sedan - Best $500 beater ever
