thanks!

i was working on the control arm setup, but i first need to know where the strut and wheel is going to sit to get my everything down perfect..... i'm running into a tight setup angles wise with the new "ball joint" rod ends.
ok, control arms.... what i've covered so far...
i just need something like this... adjustable, simple right?.. mmmm, wrong...

first up, the lower ball joint needs a way to attach to the spindle... so this was my solution... 3/4" fine thread bolt = 19mm shank and fits just right into the old ball joint shaft hole...

grade 8 bolt and i don't want to change the heat tempering of the bolt, so i cut it with a hack saw... kinda time consuming, but oh well..


you don't want stress causing rough area's in a high stress bolt, so i used a sanding disc wheel to carefully smooth it down real nice

then there's the little notch needed for the through bolt of the spindle... carefully notched that out with a carbide bit


BAM... in place nice and snug

next up there needs to be a spacer to allow the rod end to get full articulation



the large washer is a safety washer incase the joint-ball itself fails... it can't slide past the larger washer. i figure if the sucker breaks off, i got other problems to worry about first


now that the outer joint attachment is out of the way, time to locate the inners on a jig..


and part of my jig to hold the outer "ball joint"..


now comes the tricky part and i don't blame you if your eye glaze over like 5 times, because mine did that all yesterday evening trying to get this all figured out...lol
here's part of the head scratchin' fun...

the inners rod ends are 3/4 shank, 5/8 bore hole, and has 32 degrees of total articulation mounted sideways (which is how i plan to mount them in the car) and with a 13.5" long control arm, i have 5.75" of total travel at the end...
next, the outer rod ends are 3/4 shank. 3/4 bore hole and have only 26 degrees of articulation, and with the control arm length of 13.5" gives me just under 5.75" of travel on the long end.
the struts i'm going to use have 5.6" of total travel... so i have to plan very carefully for the positioning of my rod ends so that i don't have binding...
furthermore, to compound this angular circus, the stock ball joint hole in the bottom of the spindle is canted at 13 degrees the wrong way.. so, what that means, is that with the inner mounting points being higher in location for my geometry to stay in a range i want, the outer rod end needs to point downward at 13degrees, and then have the inner mounts and tubes intersect at odd angles that i don't feel so comfortable with in terms of strength... so i'm still thinking the control arm situation over while i get the upper strut mounts positioned, find out just where the new lower ball joint position will be (remember with the top of the strut tilted back, the bottom needs to go forward to keep the wheel centered in the wheel well.
time for bed tonight.. blah.
