I took the BLUE Pill. Engine bay painted
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birdmanmt
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quattro v1.0
That is actually the 1.5" v-band ferrule which will connect the crossover pipe between the wastegate and the downpipe. The bung position for the o2 is about 3" from the upper v-band @ the turbo, its only marked with a sharpee so it cant be seen from these pics.
I started the harness tonight, lots of tech-flex - going for that clean OEM look :-D
I started the harness tonight, lots of tech-flex - going for that clean OEM look :-D
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birdmanmt
birdmanmt wrote:....3 inches is pretty close though, might have overheating problems...
:stupid:
I know quite a few people were burning them out when that close. Mine is at the bottom of the downpipe, and worked great.
Mark Siggelkow
'90 CQ-R - NASA GTS-4
'12 TT-RS (Wife's DD)
'00 A4 1.8TQ (My DD)
'62 356B (vintage racer)
'07 Toyota Tundra CrewMax (for towing/hauling)
'90 CQ-R - NASA GTS-4
'12 TT-RS (Wife's DD)
'00 A4 1.8TQ (My DD)
'62 356B (vintage racer)
'07 Toyota Tundra CrewMax (for towing/hauling)
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derracuda
too close sean... it needs to be at the bottom of the DP minimum. the WB sensors are kinda finicky, but it's up to you. if you move it now, you'll be ahead of the curve and not have to pull the DP back out to re-weld a new bung later
OR! weld two bungs now, then run your WB sensor up top, and when you burn it out, you can then switch to the lower location, that way you can see what we're all talking about
OR! weld two bungs now, then run your WB sensor up top, and when you burn it out, you can then switch to the lower location, that way you can see what we're all talking about

derracuda wrote:...OR! weld two bungs now, then run your WB sensor up top, and when you burn it out, you can then switch to the lower location, that way you can see what we're all talking about

Mark Siggelkow
'90 CQ-R - NASA GTS-4
'12 TT-RS (Wife's DD)
'00 A4 1.8TQ (My DD)
'62 356B (vintage racer)
'07 Toyota Tundra CrewMax (for towing/hauling)
'90 CQ-R - NASA GTS-4
'12 TT-RS (Wife's DD)
'00 A4 1.8TQ (My DD)
'62 356B (vintage racer)
'07 Toyota Tundra CrewMax (for towing/hauling)
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quattro v1.0
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quattro v1.0
Well hopefully he was sick of welding when he left yesterday with the pieces, we kinda picked the spot together thinking it was as good of spot as any. Honestly though, I had considered running both WB and NB.
When is my favorite aluminum-guy coming back to Vegas for a few days? I hear that wolf may be interested in your services as well for a lil UrQ project he has going..
When is my favorite aluminum-guy coming back to Vegas for a few days? I hear that wolf may be interested in your services as well for a lil UrQ project he has going..
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quattro v1.0
My conscience, and other reasons convinced me to pull the head over the weekend. I added ARP studs and 20v gasket. I guess since I will have to do it, I might as well do it now. I got a warm fuzzie when I measured the valves, they are indeed 40mm as I was told by the PO. I was really happy with how the cylinders and head looked, again, it was worth the peace of mind to do it now.
Everything is back together and I have been running harness here and there. The ECU is mounted on the back side of the glove box, I'll be able to access the com cable thru the glove box.
I finished my version of the cooling mod, I changed my mind along the way and decided to do one large outlet rather than 3 small ones. I used the boss at the #5 cylinder and drilled it out, 9/16" then tapped it with 3/8NPT.

I sourced a 90 degree 3/8 NPT to 8AN and ran -8 braided up to the main coolant outlet up front and used a 14mm to AN8 adapter and then connected it with standard -8 90 degree.

Its a little hard to see the details, but maybe I'll get some better pics in the daytime. It is a gratuitous shot of the coil setup though

I had time for one more small project tonight so I layed in the heat shielding where the header / downpipe nears the chassis. Timing cover is off, I media blasted it tonight and will wrinkle paint it before it goes back on.

The plumbing is all complete, I will add some fire sleeve to the hot-zones and it should all be ready to button up.

Today would have been my first day in the Virgin Islands, US Govt paying, nice per diem etc... Oh yea, woulda been there for 11 days. I guess Im committed to this daggum project and making it to the UrQ25 event. Or else just outright committed. I turned down two trips to get this car done. So its gonna get done ;o] I found out I will be traveling to WA State late August / Sept to make up for my other trips, any car stuff going on up there?
Everything is back together and I have been running harness here and there. The ECU is mounted on the back side of the glove box, I'll be able to access the com cable thru the glove box.
I finished my version of the cooling mod, I changed my mind along the way and decided to do one large outlet rather than 3 small ones. I used the boss at the #5 cylinder and drilled it out, 9/16" then tapped it with 3/8NPT.

I sourced a 90 degree 3/8 NPT to 8AN and ran -8 braided up to the main coolant outlet up front and used a 14mm to AN8 adapter and then connected it with standard -8 90 degree.

Its a little hard to see the details, but maybe I'll get some better pics in the daytime. It is a gratuitous shot of the coil setup though

I had time for one more small project tonight so I layed in the heat shielding where the header / downpipe nears the chassis. Timing cover is off, I media blasted it tonight and will wrinkle paint it before it goes back on.

The plumbing is all complete, I will add some fire sleeve to the hot-zones and it should all be ready to button up.

Today would have been my first day in the Virgin Islands, US Govt paying, nice per diem etc... Oh yea, woulda been there for 11 days. I guess Im committed to this daggum project and making it to the UrQ25 event. Or else just outright committed. I turned down two trips to get this car done. So its gonna get done ;o] I found out I will be traveling to WA State late August / Sept to make up for my other trips, any car stuff going on up there?
Looks good Sean!!! I was feeling bad that I left town with Emily for a 1000 mile motorcycle ride and didn't get the downpipe welded up. I can tell you up front and for sure that UT35 between Kamas and Duchesne up by Park City is one of the nicest stretches of motorcycle highway in the country. The only drawback that I could see was that at 8000 ft my bike got slower. LOL I have to work tomorrow, but should be able to get to the downpipe Wed. It looks like you kept busy.
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quattro v1.0
Im sure you saw the red flags that got thrown in on our O2 placement, we can rethink that - it's currently the least of my worries right now though. I would like to get that DP in and complete so I can tighten things down and really start sorting out the left-overs.
I dremel'd the header flanges and they fit alot better. I plugged the exhaust temp bung so the header is about as ready as it's gonna get.
Maybe a turbo would help your altitude problem? lol
I dremel'd the header flanges and they fit alot better. I plugged the exhaust temp bung so the header is about as ready as it's gonna get.
Maybe a turbo would help your altitude problem? lol
Sean, the down pipe is pretty much ready to install except I need to weld a copper o-ring for the wastegate flange. I will try to find a suitable size wire at work tonight, but if you wantto slide on by the house and pick it up it's in the garage. Hank should be at the house sometime tonight or early morning.
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quattro v1.0
Sounds good John, thanks again. I will try and make a bee line over there tomorrow (possibly during work hours) or in the evening. If you can leave it somewhere I can grab it I'd appreciate it - or else if hank will be there during the day still?
I have to admit I need a bit of a boost, Im starting to feel a bit defeated. My to-do list is getting longer not shorter, albeit its just little jobs, they still need to be done. Not that I don't think it will run in 8 days, but can it run 600 miles without any sorting out...
Tell me if this is stupid, but for the sake of getting the car going with less headaches - should I do the initial startup / run with the standard O2 sensor and then piggy-back the LC-1 in once it moves on its own?
I have to admit I need a bit of a boost, Im starting to feel a bit defeated. My to-do list is getting longer not shorter, albeit its just little jobs, they still need to be done. Not that I don't think it will run in 8 days, but can it run 600 miles without any sorting out...
Tell me if this is stupid, but for the sake of getting the car going with less headaches - should I do the initial startup / run with the standard O2 sensor and then piggy-back the LC-1 in once it moves on its own?
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derracuda
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quattro v1.0
Tell me if this is stupid, but for the sake of getting the car going with less headaches - should I do the initial startup / run with the standard O2 sensor and then piggy-back the LC-1 in once it moves on its own?
I don't see any advantage to using a NB o2 when most likely you wont have it tuned and dialed in enough to run closed loop and you will need the WB to tune with any way. We might as well just stick the WB in to begin with. If you want me to weld the other bung in we can have both, but if just one lets stick with WB.
Hank ought to be around today working on his Urq. I'm still at work and will have to sleep a bit, but I ought to be up and around by noon.