Aarons Drag CQ: 3-29 anodized and welded stuff. AN lines
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
i will be using Brad Penn 20w50 after breakin next go round i think.....
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zerb
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
valvoline 20w50 racing oil. part number 855 for synthetic, 851 for non synthetic.
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
Brad Penn per lugnuts via email.....
Ed's 673whp set-up spun a bearing at the track in 2006, and after that Bob started using the increased clearance bearings and I started insisting on using Valvoline Racing VR1 20/50 oil.
I'm now starting to recommend Brad Penn 20/50 oil, because I am hearing reports that they took the added
zinc out of the VR1 20/50.
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
Good to know on the vr1
24v-VR6T-CQ BEAST http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=193#p37887
16v-ABA-T VEMS O1E ETC 4Kq http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=201#p38264
16v-ABA-T VEMS O1E ETC 4Kq http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=201#p38264
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zerb
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
but they HAVE the zinc in the 'not street legal racing oil'...which are the part numbers that i posted above. the VR1 racing oil is part number 211.
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
Ahhh, ok then.
part numbers i know nothing about.
part numbers i know nothing about.
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zerb
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
thats why im telling you, lol. 

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Racerguy381
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
This is what I have if you want Racing 20w50

Here is a link to the Lucas Racing oil Products
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/displa ... headTitle= - Lucas High Performance Racing Only Motor Oil

Here is a link to the Lucas Racing oil Products
http://www.lucasoil.com/products/displa ... headTitle= - Lucas High Performance Racing Only Motor Oil
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fasterthenrs2
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
Ughh I guess im just simple man, red line 20W50 for 40k easy miles
, on a lower end and bearings still looked like new when pulled a part
, on a lower end and bearings still looked like new when pulled a part-
O2VW1.8T
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
5w-30 regular castrol here non-syntec.
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
fasterthenrs2 wrote:Ughh I guess im just simple man, red line 20W50 for 40k easy miles, on a lower end and bearings still looked like new when pulled a part
Redline still has it's zinc however. By law zinc has been mandated gone, so in order to run an oil with a bit more shear protection (zinc) one has to either buy specialty, foreign, or diesel oils. I run Rotella synthetic in everything I own except for the wife's A4 S-line and that is because she still has free Audi service.
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
I run Rotella in everything I own too...
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cuatrokoop
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
Like father.....Like son.
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
I'm a recent convert, at least partially converted. I've started running Rotella dino oils in my twin screw PG corrado, as it sees pretty high oils temps for normal operation. So far so good.....but i have some Mobile1 stock to run out before i begin to consider Rotella for the audi.....
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 8-29 it was #4 rod bearing....
yup, Rotella was the other one.....
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 9-01 cast rear control arms DONE!
so i have not been lazy here.... been rather busy.
work has sucked lately, 10 hrs monday day.
then go do a night shift tuesday night (i dont sleep daytime) 16 hrs.
off @ 7:30 AM weds.
come home and "rest" just relaxing and laying down but not proper sleeping for a couple hours.
sleep WELL weds night, then full day of work today.
and in this time i also got the cast control arms situation figured out for it. i used B3 ball joints on the correct side, while flip-flopping the arms themselves from side to side, pass on driver and driver on pass side.
so first i put on some stock arms with rubber bushings and located where it would end up. its rather far back in the well.

so now that i can figure out that with the 034 offset subframe bushings it will move the wheel forward, i take the plunge and get the bushings and also the Delrin control arm bushings. it was a semi largish expenditure to do on a whim, as i said, but i took the plunge as i know now it will work out for me.



and after i moved the subframe back forward, they are better centered in the well. still not PERFECT (D3R3K) but fine enough for what i am doing.

so after all this, i take the rear diff mounts, redrill the holes for the front mounts and just slide the rear mount back so i do not pinch the driveline in there.
all is well.
now for another alignment after i get it running again.
which is in the works.
work has sucked lately, 10 hrs monday day.
then go do a night shift tuesday night (i dont sleep daytime) 16 hrs.
off @ 7:30 AM weds.
come home and "rest" just relaxing and laying down but not proper sleeping for a couple hours.
sleep WELL weds night, then full day of work today.
and in this time i also got the cast control arms situation figured out for it. i used B3 ball joints on the correct side, while flip-flopping the arms themselves from side to side, pass on driver and driver on pass side.
so first i put on some stock arms with rubber bushings and located where it would end up. its rather far back in the well.

so now that i can figure out that with the 034 offset subframe bushings it will move the wheel forward, i take the plunge and get the bushings and also the Delrin control arm bushings. it was a semi largish expenditure to do on a whim, as i said, but i took the plunge as i know now it will work out for me.



and after i moved the subframe back forward, they are better centered in the well. still not PERFECT (D3R3K) but fine enough for what i am doing.

so after all this, i take the rear diff mounts, redrill the holes for the front mounts and just slide the rear mount back so i do not pinch the driveline in there.
all is well.
now for another alignment after i get it running again.
which is in the works.

- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 9-01 cast rear control arms DONE!
been playin around with this and that. doin little stuff.
welded up the rear WG it was cracked too. shouldnt happen again.
devised a new turbo support, and once the other heim gets here that will be done.
waiting on rods, they will be back soon. then back together, and back to tuning. then hit the track hopefully before the end of the year....
lets see, what else have i done.... OH YEEAH, the heat shield for the manifold.
SS 20ga plate. tried it out of 3/16" alum, cant bend it. tried it out of some other SS plate i found at work, thinner than the Al but still cant bend it. just went to the Metal Supermarket and browsed til i found what i wanted. traced my shape, tweaked it here and there, and VIOLA. its on and formed and shaped, but not finished. now i am going to make strips around the perimeter and then i am going to use some of my handy dandy heat resistant wrap stuff, and wrap the underside....its cool looking, maybe i do the top. i dunno. but rivet it to the plate and its done.


welded up the rear WG it was cracked too. shouldnt happen again.
devised a new turbo support, and once the other heim gets here that will be done.
waiting on rods, they will be back soon. then back together, and back to tuning. then hit the track hopefully before the end of the year....
lets see, what else have i done.... OH YEEAH, the heat shield for the manifold.
SS 20ga plate. tried it out of 3/16" alum, cant bend it. tried it out of some other SS plate i found at work, thinner than the Al but still cant bend it. just went to the Metal Supermarket and browsed til i found what i wanted. traced my shape, tweaked it here and there, and VIOLA. its on and formed and shaped, but not finished. now i am going to make strips around the perimeter and then i am going to use some of my handy dandy heat resistant wrap stuff, and wrap the underside....its cool looking, maybe i do the top. i dunno. but rivet it to the plate and its done.


- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 9-07 random maintenance stuff
oh yes, and i have been researching HARD about the next project. do not worry, it will be built here LOL. its gonna be a fun one as well.
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naudi1
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 9-07 random maintenance stuff
Do you need a heat shield for a drag car?
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 9-07 random maintenance stuff
dunno. it'll help under hood heat. help keep that heat off my beautiful CF hood....
but the biggest thing was that i am very bored, and it was one of the way low priority things to do
but the biggest thing was that i am very bored, and it was one of the way low priority things to do

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Toxcheap
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 9-07 random maintenance stuff
speeding-g60 wrote:but the biggest thing was that i am very bored,
BAHAHHA I was gonna post your probably just bored and thinking of thinks to do

- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 9-07 random maintenance stuff
looks like the crank will be ground 10/10..... so its all savable. new rods and bearings, rings too.
now the concensus is running towards machining crap still in the oil galleys, but i dont know. it made #4 bad, and #3 had a groove cut into the bearing as well, but not the crank journal.... it couldnt have been crap pumping thru the oil pump for #3, or it would be on #2 and #1 as well.
seems they think it spun right away but we did not hear it until it got a little worn....
whatever, its savable so that is what matters.
block is being gone thru right now, crank is being ground right now. gonna refinish the bores, new machining equipment. this guy does a plateau brush hone after its all said and done. knocks the high stuff off the crosshatches, and they get full seal on rings by second pull instead of 5-6 or whatever. just a really fine micro finish step. as i said before, this guy builds 1000whp BMW street car motors for HorsePowerFreaks, he knows what he is about. he can do cool stuff with port work like radius the seats instead of multi angle valve job, you have a smooth rounded edge for better flow.... that kind of stuff.
now the concensus is running towards machining crap still in the oil galleys, but i dont know. it made #4 bad, and #3 had a groove cut into the bearing as well, but not the crank journal.... it couldnt have been crap pumping thru the oil pump for #3, or it would be on #2 and #1 as well.
seems they think it spun right away but we did not hear it until it got a little worn....
whatever, its savable so that is what matters.
block is being gone thru right now, crank is being ground right now. gonna refinish the bores, new machining equipment. this guy does a plateau brush hone after its all said and done. knocks the high stuff off the crosshatches, and they get full seal on rings by second pull instead of 5-6 or whatever. just a really fine micro finish step. as i said before, this guy builds 1000whp BMW street car motors for HorsePowerFreaks, he knows what he is about. he can do cool stuff with port work like radius the seats instead of multi angle valve job, you have a smooth rounded edge for better flow.... that kind of stuff.
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xpalendocious
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 9-09 random update; parts are good...
longest that this thread hasnt been updated?
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 9-09 random update; parts are good...
oh i did update, huh 
parts are all done ordered, awaiting shipment and reassembly.
then back to dyno, and hopefully the track for one more >135mph pass for my 9 sec license.
i also made a radius rod to support the turbo, and have been workin some on my other race car. its gonna be a project. tube framed rabbit with mid-engine RWD 16vT with a Dodge A404 built auto trans. consistent brackets is the goal. would love a 10.80 index @ 130-132 mph. my wife could drive it

parts are all done ordered, awaiting shipment and reassembly.
then back to dyno, and hopefully the track for one more >135mph pass for my 9 sec license.
i also made a radius rod to support the turbo, and have been workin some on my other race car. its gonna be a project. tube framed rabbit with mid-engine RWD 16vT with a Dodge A404 built auto trans. consistent brackets is the goal. would love a 10.80 index @ 130-132 mph. my wife could drive it

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zerb
Re: Aarons Drag CQ: 9-09 random update; parts are good...
speeding-g60 wrote: my wife could drive it
say it aint so.
id rather see chubs drive it