Aarons Drag CQ: 3-29 anodized and welded stuff. AN lines
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
ok, so quick updates.....
crank is fine, still have a couple more on the way just in case. motor may be totally back in and running this weekend.
while i am sittin around doing nothing i decided to do something. while on that fateful dyno session, we experienced a very massive boost spike. we spent a good deal of (costly) time trying to sort that issue out. we thought the solenoid could be bad. thought it was not working. made a pull with no solenoid off the springs in the wG's alone. finally sorted out the issue, and then proceeded to blow it up
but wires i could not get to the back of the fuse panel easily to trace wires, etc. so i fixed that. i will never be in that position again LOL. just moved the ECU and set up the wiring on terminal blocks. labeled the unused wiring, so quick and easy reference for "if" happens again.
this is all i got for pix. Joey should be doing the pix of motor assembling and that stuff.


crank is fine, still have a couple more on the way just in case. motor may be totally back in and running this weekend.
while i am sittin around doing nothing i decided to do something. while on that fateful dyno session, we experienced a very massive boost spike. we spent a good deal of (costly) time trying to sort that issue out. we thought the solenoid could be bad. thought it was not working. made a pull with no solenoid off the springs in the wG's alone. finally sorted out the issue, and then proceeded to blow it up
but wires i could not get to the back of the fuse panel easily to trace wires, etc. so i fixed that. i will never be in that position again LOL. just moved the ECU and set up the wiring on terminal blocks. labeled the unused wiring, so quick and easy reference for "if" happens again.this is all i got for pix. Joey should be doing the pix of motor assembling and that stuff.


- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
so i re-ran the numbers with this calculator, based on actual weight and power of the car. the power is probably going to be a bit more than 592 AWHP with the new motor especially since it was a 3rd gear pull.... but this looks really promising.
http://www.letstorquebhp.com/calculator.asp
Power at Flywheel (BHP) : 750
Weight without Driver (KG) : 1150
Power to Weight Ratio (BHP Per Ton) : 662.64
0 - 60 (Secs) : 2.65
0 - 100 (Secs) : 5.43
60 - 100 (Secs) : 2.78
Quarter Mile (Secs) : 10.61
Terminal Speed (MPH) : 141.82
Drag Strip Quarter Mile (Secs) : 10.21
Drag Strip Terminal Speed (MPH) : 146.90
http://www.letstorquebhp.com/calculator.asp
Power at Flywheel (BHP) : 750
Weight without Driver (KG) : 1150
Power to Weight Ratio (BHP Per Ton) : 662.64
0 - 60 (Secs) : 2.65
0 - 100 (Secs) : 5.43
60 - 100 (Secs) : 2.78
Quarter Mile (Secs) : 10.61
Terminal Speed (MPH) : 141.82
Drag Strip Quarter Mile (Secs) : 10.21
Drag Strip Terminal Speed (MPH) : 146.90
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
and the motor will be back at the shop tomorrow. they did not pin the crank, so they will do it in the morning.
i have not gotten the breakdown of exactly what was done machining wise. but here is most of it.
checked deck.
magnafluxed block.
balanced rods.
bore and hone 83mm.
magnafluxed crank.
checked straightness on crank.
checked mainline, and main cap #5 was off a couple thou. they drug the mainline to straighten that.
and assembly this week, early i hope. still trying to decide if i want to re-tune it again. i know i probably will..... but i have 3 more chances at the track this year period. i have to take it down the track sometime.
i guess there is always So-Cal. a roadtrip down there, tracks run alot further into the season there than here....
i have not gotten the breakdown of exactly what was done machining wise. but here is most of it.
checked deck.
magnafluxed block.
balanced rods.
bore and hone 83mm.
magnafluxed crank.
checked straightness on crank.
checked mainline, and main cap #5 was off a couple thou. they drug the mainline to straighten that.
and assembly this week, early i hope. still trying to decide if i want to re-tune it again. i know i probably will..... but i have 3 more chances at the track this year period. i have to take it down the track sometime.
i guess there is always So-Cal. a roadtrip down there, tracks run alot further into the season there than here....
:woowoo: :woowoo:
24v-VR6T-CQ BEAST http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=193#p37887
16v-ABA-T VEMS O1E ETC 4Kq http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=201#p38264
16v-ABA-T VEMS O1E ETC 4Kq http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=201#p38264
:woowoo: :woowoo:
24v-VR6T-CQ BEAST http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=193#p37887
16v-ABA-T VEMS O1E ETC 4Kq http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=201#p38264
16v-ABA-T VEMS O1E ETC 4Kq http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=201#p38264
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simon-says
Well here are the pics of the new assembly. I first pre-assembled the crank and a connecting rod with piston to get the piston height and also to get the total cc's of the piston. Then using an application on the internet, I entered the data and now have a static compression ratio.
8.97:1 and these are 8.5:1 shelf pistons from JE. Then I will write down all of the specs of the crankshaft clearances, rod clearances, and piston to cylinder wall clearances. Don't forget the torque specs of all bolts. That way Aaron will have a complete spec sheet of what was done.
Now on to the few pics that I took.

Hope that color is shiny enough for ya. I should have all of the rings gaped and ready for final assembly tomorrow night.
Don't forget to bring the cylinder head tomorrow.
8.97:1 and these are 8.5:1 shelf pistons from JE. Then I will write down all of the specs of the crankshaft clearances, rod clearances, and piston to cylinder wall clearances. Don't forget the torque specs of all bolts. That way Aaron will have a complete spec sheet of what was done.
Now on to the few pics that I took.

Hope that color is shiny enough for ya. I should have all of the rings gaped and ready for final assembly tomorrow night.
-
cuatrokoop
-
Wizard-of-OD
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
i dont know much about this area, hence why i have had Issam build me one motor and Joey re-doing the rabbit motor up right now so i can run the car this season.
but i am doing learning, reading, and comprehending such things. i just do not trust myself to build my own motor because it has always been in a really important situation. maybe i will build a stock motor to see if i can do it start to finish.
but here is how i understand it (copied from the almighty INTARWEBZ).
but i am doing learning, reading, and comprehending such things. i just do not trust myself to build my own motor because it has always been in a really important situation. maybe i will build a stock motor to see if i can do it start to finish.
but here is how i understand it (copied from the almighty INTARWEBZ).
random interweb site wrote:[/quote]
Static or cranking compression pressure is what each cylinder
experiences when the starter motor is turning the engine or when
the engine is running at idle RPM. Please don’t confuse static
compression with “compression ratio” which has to do with how
much volume remains in the cylinder when the piston is at the top
of its’ stroke. Static compression and compression ratio are related
but the definition of each is different.
Compression pressures that are too high can result in difficult
starting and detonation or “pinging” which in turn can cause
engine damage. These high static compression pressures are a
result of compression ratios set too high, intake cam duration too
short or the intake cam timing set with too much advance.
Low compression pressures translate to poor low RPM torque. Causes for low compression pressures are late intake cam timing,
too much intake duration or a compression ratio set too low.
Modifying an engine by changing pistons, camshafts or compression ratios will have a direct effect on static or cranking compression pressure. If the static compression pressure is too high or too low, the engine will not run as well as it should and in some
cases, the resulting problems can be serious. Static or cranking compression can easily be measured with a COMPRESSION
testing gauge. Cost is usually less than $25.00 and most auto sup-ply stores or well equipped motorcycle shops sell them. To measure static pressure, the procedure is as follows:
With a warm engine, turn off the fuel from the tank, make sure the choke is off and the transmission is in neutral. Remove both
spark plugs and insert the gauge adapter in one spark plug location. Now, holding the throttle wide open, turn on the starter motor
and read the pressure indicated on the gauge. Then repeat the procedure on the other cylinder. The figures on the next page give
some idea as to the significance of different pressure readings. Also some gauges have a rubber tip instead of a screw in adapter.
Either way, reading the static pressure of your engine should be fairly easy. Generally, higher static pressures mean more
torque at lower RPM ranges but the trade off is that above a certain point (around185 PSI) the risk of detonation enters the picture. What happens at higher RPM is less predictable and can’t be easily determined from a static pressure reading. What is important is that the cam timing, duration and compression ratio all be properly matched so that each compliments the others.[/quote]
and this place is a calc to apply the info....
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html
experiences when the starter motor is turning the engine or when
the engine is running at idle RPM. Please don’t confuse static
compression with “compression ratio” which has to do with how
much volume remains in the cylinder when the piston is at the top
of its’ stroke. Static compression and compression ratio are related
but the definition of each is different.
Compression pressures that are too high can result in difficult
starting and detonation or “pinging” which in turn can cause
engine damage. These high static compression pressures are a
result of compression ratios set too high, intake cam duration too
short or the intake cam timing set with too much advance.
Low compression pressures translate to poor low RPM torque. Causes for low compression pressures are late intake cam timing,
too much intake duration or a compression ratio set too low.
Modifying an engine by changing pistons, camshafts or compression ratios will have a direct effect on static or cranking compression pressure. If the static compression pressure is too high or too low, the engine will not run as well as it should and in some
cases, the resulting problems can be serious. Static or cranking compression can easily be measured with a COMPRESSION
testing gauge. Cost is usually less than $25.00 and most auto sup-ply stores or well equipped motorcycle shops sell them. To measure static pressure, the procedure is as follows:
With a warm engine, turn off the fuel from the tank, make sure the choke is off and the transmission is in neutral. Remove both
spark plugs and insert the gauge adapter in one spark plug location. Now, holding the throttle wide open, turn on the starter motor
and read the pressure indicated on the gauge. Then repeat the procedure on the other cylinder. The figures on the next page give
some idea as to the significance of different pressure readings. Also some gauges have a rubber tip instead of a screw in adapter.
Either way, reading the static pressure of your engine should be fairly easy. Generally, higher static pressures mean more
torque at lower RPM ranges but the trade off is that above a certain point (around185 PSI) the risk of detonation enters the picture. What happens at higher RPM is less predictable and can’t be easily determined from a static pressure reading. What is important is that the cam timing, duration and compression ratio all be properly matched so that each compliments the others.[/quote]
and this place is a calc to apply the info....
http://www.rbracing-rsr.com/compstaticcalc.html
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
new motor is in and awaiting one more part to be machined. Joey did not make the machine shop in time on friday.
i picked up the motor by 11:30 this morning. went straight to Chuck E Cheese for my sons 3rd birthday party. then went straight home, and put the motor in. maybe 2.5 hrs and i have yet to hook up some wires and coolant lines. i cant finalize it until i get the intermediate shaft back monday. or i would need to remove radiator. i have less than an hour to make it run again.... WOOHOO!!!!!
have plans again for dyno this week, then hopefully its decent weather for the weekend to run it. wow what a roller-coaster....
first, i had to make a tool.... i needed to keep the motor locked in place while i torqued the flywheel. so i MacGyvered something up right quick. works like a charm.


then this blingin thing hangin out here.... looks all shiny. Joey's choice on color. and the pink tape as well.

and its in. i have maybe an hour tops after i get the IM shaft monday, really. i am takin the rest of the evening off, as i need to save something to do for tomorrow LOL.



i picked up the motor by 11:30 this morning. went straight to Chuck E Cheese for my sons 3rd birthday party. then went straight home, and put the motor in. maybe 2.5 hrs and i have yet to hook up some wires and coolant lines. i cant finalize it until i get the intermediate shaft back monday. or i would need to remove radiator. i have less than an hour to make it run again.... WOOHOO!!!!!
have plans again for dyno this week, then hopefully its decent weather for the weekend to run it. wow what a roller-coaster....
first, i had to make a tool.... i needed to keep the motor locked in place while i torqued the flywheel. so i MacGyvered something up right quick. works like a charm.


then this blingin thing hangin out here.... looks all shiny. Joey's choice on color. and the pink tape as well.

and its in. i have maybe an hour tops after i get the IM shaft monday, really. i am takin the rest of the evening off, as i need to save something to do for tomorrow LOL.



-
WAUG0806
-
HT Motorsport
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:56 am
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
this is a public service announcement to anyone who has used or made these tie rods like i did.
i am canceling my project for the time being. this was discovered about half hour ago, i do not know why it has broken. but if you made tie rods for front, or rear, and used the swedged tubes like i did from ColemanRacing, please rethink. my car has not even driven down the track yet. only on dyno. i cannot imagine what would have happened if i had been driving when this finished letting go. well, i can and its not pretty.... something along the lines of roll cage testing, etc.
so change those parts if you use them like i did. again, dont know why this happened, dont care today. just want things to be safe is all.


i am canceling my project for the time being. this was discovered about half hour ago, i do not know why it has broken. but if you made tie rods for front, or rear, and used the swedged tubes like i did from ColemanRacing, please rethink. my car has not even driven down the track yet. only on dyno. i cannot imagine what would have happened if i had been driving when this finished letting go. well, i can and its not pretty.... something along the lines of roll cage testing, etc.
so change those parts if you use them like i did. again, dont know why this happened, dont care today. just want things to be safe is all.


speeding-g60 wrote:this is a public service announcement to anyone who has used or made these tie rods like i did.
i am canceling my project for the time being. this was discovered about half hour ago, i do not know why it has broken. but if you made tie rods for front, or rear, and used the swedged tubes like i did from ColemanRacing, please rethink. my car has not even driven down the track yet. only on dyno. i cannot imagine what would have happened if i had been driving when this finished letting go. well, i can and its not pretty.... something along the lines of roll cage testing, etc.
so change those parts if you use them like i did. again, dont know why this happened, dont care today. just want things to be safe is all.
:jawdrop:
24v-VR6T-CQ BEAST http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=193#p37887
16v-ABA-T VEMS O1E ETC 4Kq http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=201#p38264
16v-ABA-T VEMS O1E ETC 4Kq http://www.theprojectpad.com/viewtopic.php?f=11&t=201#p38264
lol... that oil filter housing with the adapter on the bottom looks an awful lot like a mechanical fuel pump, lol.
http://www.ExceleratePerformance.com
2003 540i/6 #1090/1265 imported M5 diff+Sway, Powerflex bushings, BC Racing coils
1991 200 20v Avant MRC Tune + Bilsteins... more to come.
2001 330Ci Convertible -Fiance Mobile
2003 540i/6 #1090/1265 imported M5 diff+Sway, Powerflex bushings, BC Racing coils
1991 200 20v Avant MRC Tune + Bilsteins... more to come.
2001 330Ci Convertible -Fiance Mobile
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a_CQ
Ooops...wholy crap I missed a lot happening here...wow, just wow.
Aaron, didn't you say you used aluminum rods and they also had steel? Something to the effect of you not having to turn much at the drag strip was the reason you chose aluminum, or whatever the material is...
In any case, I'm glad it didn't break on you blasting down the strip at 140mph.
Aaron, didn't you say you used aluminum rods and they also had steel? Something to the effect of you not having to turn much at the drag strip was the reason you chose aluminum, or whatever the material is...
In any case, I'm glad it didn't break on you blasting down the strip at 140mph.