Aarons Drag CQ: 3-29 anodized and welded stuff. AN lines
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WAUG0806
WAUG0806 wrote:I bet you could watch your turbos glow in the dark with that set-up 8)
Your tuner and I share a pretty rare surname.
long lost motorhead relative?

Marc Swanson
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
Proprietor, EFI Motorsport
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
so. i have been digging away at the front end framing. i put some doubler plates on the strut towers. the pass side is a big divot there, so i used 1/4" plate there. driver side sits flat, so i used 1/8" on it. had to contour it just a little. heat it and beat it haha.
i dropped the frame rails down low with 1/4" plate as well, as i wanted the crossbar pretty low and out of the way. it sits even with the bumper skin on the inside now. tomorrow i am going to gusset each intersection, and trim those drop plates to a Vee. also, going to gusset them back to the framerails on the backside as well. corner bracing on the lower hoop and may incorporate a small snub mount.
the passenger motor mount is also engineered and 2/3rd's done. just need to do the driver side and i am all set.
tab off the side bars for some fender mounting points. make the upper core cross beam. make the strut tower cross beam. cut holes
:( in that super nice hood for the aerocatch flush hood pins. and make tabs to mount the bumper.
a craptastic event happened. just got the bumper back from my buddy with fressssshhh paint. just need(ed) a color sand, buff out. and it slipped on the jackstands and scratched it up pretty good on the lower front. i can live with it, but he is gonna be bummed. he will want to repaint it just cuz thats him.
well, enough blabbering. on to some pixorz.






i dropped the frame rails down low with 1/4" plate as well, as i wanted the crossbar pretty low and out of the way. it sits even with the bumper skin on the inside now. tomorrow i am going to gusset each intersection, and trim those drop plates to a Vee. also, going to gusset them back to the framerails on the backside as well. corner bracing on the lower hoop and may incorporate a small snub mount.
the passenger motor mount is also engineered and 2/3rd's done. just need to do the driver side and i am all set.
tab off the side bars for some fender mounting points. make the upper core cross beam. make the strut tower cross beam. cut holes
:( in that super nice hood for the aerocatch flush hood pins. and make tabs to mount the bumper. a craptastic event happened. just got the bumper back from my buddy with fressssshhh paint. just need(ed) a color sand, buff out. and it slipped on the jackstands and scratched it up pretty good on the lower front. i can live with it, but he is gonna be bummed. he will want to repaint it just cuz thats him.
well, enough blabbering. on to some pixorz.





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fasterthenrs2
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zerb
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
oh ya gotta trust me
i played plenty with all this as i did it. checked the hood clearance every single step. i built it with the fenders and bumper in place.... see 3rd and 4th pix... the tube is just under the fender rail where it mounts to the OEM fenderwall.
i actually was getting kinda tired of shutting and opening the hood so much. but i gotta make sure of it before i do it. ya know?
so yeah, no worries. and its strong as hell, too. i over build things on occasion. well, all the time i think. but rather be over than under built.
and dont mind that intake sitting on there.... its just messin around action.... seein whats to see, ya know? that was left over from a different 20v 4cyl project we did awhile ago.
i played plenty with all this as i did it. checked the hood clearance every single step. i built it with the fenders and bumper in place.... see 3rd and 4th pix... the tube is just under the fender rail where it mounts to the OEM fenderwall.i actually was getting kinda tired of shutting and opening the hood so much. but i gotta make sure of it before i do it. ya know?
so yeah, no worries. and its strong as hell, too. i over build things on occasion. well, all the time i think. but rather be over than under built.
and dont mind that intake sitting on there.... its just messin around action.... seein whats to see, ya know? that was left over from a different 20v 4cyl project we did awhile ago.
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
yeah. i got one coming and am modifying it a bit. gonna play placement with the AWIC next week. but basics? going to angle the inlet a bit towards the driver strut. and have the AWIC coupled right to the TB. so i have one pipe hopefully, with only one 45 degree bend in it from the turbo to the IC.
the fuel cell and related will be front driver corner-ish. the catch can i am designing will be where the air used to go to the heater inlet. cutting off the rain tray, and may possibly make the radiator overflow sit in the area above the trans and the steering linkage to rack. oil filter relocate still gotta decide, and the oil cooler as well. cooler will prob be front center down low. i have a 1.8T Jetta MK4 radiator that i am going to fit up and see if it will work. if so, go out and buy a new one and thats taken care of.
got lots of thoughts in this over-clocked brain of mine.... its time i lack. but i have the next two weeks off work (HOPEFULLY!!!!) to put some time into it. cage, the works. paint the motor compartment is one of the plans this month, after its all finished and what not. but i may concentrate on all my stuff, and paint the bay when i do the body.
the fuel cell and related will be front driver corner-ish. the catch can i am designing will be where the air used to go to the heater inlet. cutting off the rain tray, and may possibly make the radiator overflow sit in the area above the trans and the steering linkage to rack. oil filter relocate still gotta decide, and the oil cooler as well. cooler will prob be front center down low. i have a 1.8T Jetta MK4 radiator that i am going to fit up and see if it will work. if so, go out and buy a new one and thats taken care of.
got lots of thoughts in this over-clocked brain of mine.... its time i lack. but i have the next two weeks off work (HOPEFULLY!!!!) to put some time into it. cage, the works. paint the motor compartment is one of the plans this month, after its all finished and what not. but i may concentrate on all my stuff, and paint the bay when i do the body.
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
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HT Motorsport
- Posts: 350
- Joined: Wed Feb 27, 2013 11:56 am
speeding-g60 wrote:wanna hear something totally retarded? i am more scared to cut the holes in the hood for the latches than i am/was cutting off the front of the damned car!!!!
howz that for stupid?
Thats retarded!

Wait, thats in the CF hood right? yeah I dont bame ya then!!!!
Looks like a whole heap of fun to me though. I had to work hard to stop myself hacking my chassis legs off with the plasma this afternoon...Maybe tomorrow

Keep up the good work and the thread, I love it.
Oh and Q: what size is the tubing you are using? and what are you bending it with?
Q2: no ARB on this thing right, being a drag car and all.
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
yeah, that real pretty high dollar limited edition CF B4 hood....
Q1: for this portion i used 1.25 OD .120 wall tubing. for the roll cage proper it is spec to NHRA, 1.625 OD .134 wall i believe. the cage was bent by S&W Racecars. this tubing i had a local race shop bend it for me. they put out some OMFG cars.... truly amazing stuff....
Q2: no ARB's here. it is drag car and drag car only ever. well, i think ever.
i do have a pretty big roll bar layin around here somewhere, but not thinking i need to use it really. its just more weight. dunno what its from either... but its pretty goodly sized.
oh yeah. i spoke with Javad yesterday on the phone, about Dis-n-Dat. about my mounting choice, and springs, etc. i told him i am planning 650/900 he said that should be a decent starting point.... he has not gotten as far as spring/chassis tuning, axles are more problematic at this point :-D
i am also getting my parts lined out for cast control arms in the rear, as well. since i have all solid alum 034 subframe mounts, and delrin bushings, and solid trans, etc Javad also told me that for my application as solid as i can make it is better. hence the solid passenger mount.
i am definitely also strapping the front end to help control lift of the front on acceleration. it will still have suspension travel, just limiting the extension of such. like the dune-buggy dudes do, to keep the front from over-extension. any movement not associated with going forward is taking away from going forward. i am trying to associate all energy being created for forward propulsion. my mind works in that any wasted movement is just that: wasted.
but ya know something? i am just a guy, who sees things and then dissects it inside my head. wanting to know the what/why/how of stuff.... and then utilize what i come up with for my own good. i am a construction worker, not a race car builder. these are hobby cars for me. i could never get real serious about racing as the well paying job that allows me to afford these things would get in the way. oh well. its fun to build stuff. creativity...... i dig it.
Q1: for this portion i used 1.25 OD .120 wall tubing. for the roll cage proper it is spec to NHRA, 1.625 OD .134 wall i believe. the cage was bent by S&W Racecars. this tubing i had a local race shop bend it for me. they put out some OMFG cars.... truly amazing stuff....
Q2: no ARB's here. it is drag car and drag car only ever. well, i think ever.

i do have a pretty big roll bar layin around here somewhere, but not thinking i need to use it really. its just more weight. dunno what its from either... but its pretty goodly sized.
oh yeah. i spoke with Javad yesterday on the phone, about Dis-n-Dat. about my mounting choice, and springs, etc. i told him i am planning 650/900 he said that should be a decent starting point.... he has not gotten as far as spring/chassis tuning, axles are more problematic at this point :-D
i am also getting my parts lined out for cast control arms in the rear, as well. since i have all solid alum 034 subframe mounts, and delrin bushings, and solid trans, etc Javad also told me that for my application as solid as i can make it is better. hence the solid passenger mount.
i am definitely also strapping the front end to help control lift of the front on acceleration. it will still have suspension travel, just limiting the extension of such. like the dune-buggy dudes do, to keep the front from over-extension. any movement not associated with going forward is taking away from going forward. i am trying to associate all energy being created for forward propulsion. my mind works in that any wasted movement is just that: wasted.
but ya know something? i am just a guy, who sees things and then dissects it inside my head. wanting to know the what/why/how of stuff.... and then utilize what i come up with for my own good. i am a construction worker, not a race car builder. these are hobby cars for me. i could never get real serious about racing as the well paying job that allows me to afford these things would get in the way. oh well. its fun to build stuff. creativity...... i dig it.
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derracuda
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WAUG0806
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
Doug, do not forget two hyper dogs and a huge saltwater reef setup to manage as well... and yeah, i dont have that many days at home in the past 8 months for sure... not even half that. but i should get some stuff done to it in this next 2 seeks for sure!!!
and Derek, this motor has no crank in it and the AEB block in shed has but without balancer. end of the crank bolt is roughly 17". so looking like right at 18" for the motor with balancer.... i got tons of room up in front of the motor in this car... lots.
and Derek, this motor has no crank in it and the AEB block in shed has but without balancer. end of the crank bolt is roughly 17". so looking like right at 18" for the motor with balancer.... i got tons of room up in front of the motor in this car... lots.
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
updates. still gotta make tabs for bumper and another one for the lower fenders. but the plating and gussets are in place. with me jumping on the front end, it goes nowhere. sturdy as hell.
and it could just be me, but this does not feel like 2500 pounds rolling around. i am no Mike Toxcheap, but i am not a little guy... pushing it around is easy. piece of cake.
i also tossed in the manual steering rack, so i could push it around. little more work to do there and it is finalized as well. gotta make a driver side motor mount, but with just the pass side it is sturdy as can be.
i am done for the day, i think. i am gonna clean the hell out of the garage while it is outside. but i gotta play plumber on my big reef setup. my chiller stopped working and i have to take it out of the loop so i can have it looked at. and re-route one of the drains as well.





and it could just be me, but this does not feel like 2500 pounds rolling around. i am no Mike Toxcheap, but i am not a little guy... pushing it around is easy. piece of cake.
i also tossed in the manual steering rack, so i could push it around. little more work to do there and it is finalized as well. gotta make a driver side motor mount, but with just the pass side it is sturdy as can be.
i am done for the day, i think. i am gonna clean the hell out of the garage while it is outside. but i gotta play plumber on my big reef setup. my chiller stopped working and i have to take it out of the loop so i can have it looked at. and re-route one of the drains as well.





- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
and some detail of the gusseting. went back to the framerails on the back side with 1/4" plate. actually used the drop pieces from Vee'ing the drop plates
nothing like material management haha.
and i bought a tube notcher setup in prep for making the cage, it works decently. and the cute little gussets with the holes i got with the roll cage, i used a couple here.... and i am leaving the wide open spots on either side for the turbo and the fuel cell, etc.





nothing like material management haha.and i bought a tube notcher setup in prep for making the cage, it works decently. and the cute little gussets with the holes i got with the roll cage, i used a couple here.... and i am leaving the wide open spots on either side for the turbo and the fuel cell, etc.





- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
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zerb
- speeding-g60
- Posts: 2152
- Joined: Fri Mar 01, 2013 10:46 am
oh yes, Johnny my friend. it is going to be twin scroll goodness. with two Tial MS-V v-band 38mm WG's. and it will have just a short length of 4" pipe run out the fender probably. i think the turbo will go low, and the 5" inlet will be facing the openings of course.... i im tossing about the idea of running it inside the fender, and out high by the door gap. coated pipe and wrapped for heat protection. we will see when the manifold is made.
but that is definitely the plan. that whole area on the pass side in there is for manifold and turbo, WG's. why i did what i had to with the tubing
i held that big thing in there and was like "WTF???" scratching my head thinking its not gonna work.... bahhh, cut out whats in the way, it'll work 
but that is definitely the plan. that whole area on the pass side in there is for manifold and turbo, WG's. why i did what i had to with the tubing
i held that big thing in there and was like "WTF???" scratching my head thinking its not gonna work.... bahhh, cut out whats in the way, it'll work 
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a_CQ
- speeding-g60
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