Cory's Lifted / Rallyx CQ - Winch Installed

[mr_aj_johnson]

Those tires are huge, and alot to be pushing around. Keep any eye on special stage and rally anarchy for used rally tires. They are a cheap investment in more power to the ground, and more grip. Otherwise grab a set of cheap snow tires and tractionise them (make the gap between blocks bigger)

Also the electrical tape wont last long and will be a pain to get off, use some old bicycle tubes stretched around the strut threads to protect them and a couple of zip ties to hold them in place.

I'd also drop the ride height a bit, it sounds like you are probably maxing out the struts droop. Get a longer spring and run a little lower so that the tires tries to stay in contact with the ground when drooping.

[frostyflax17]

There's still a good 4" in the front for droop, the rears have the thicker urs4 struts (shorter?) so there's only about 2" of droop. But I don't see how the spring height will change the strut droop or am I misunderstanding? And yeah I'm attempting to look for better (smaller) tires for rallying in 17". The ride was a bit rough so I'm thinking some 12" 200lb springs for rear and 10" 200lb front? I have easily 4" of threads underneath, and recommended coil over springs are bout 8" in height right rear and 6" front? (but this is for lowering the car)

Also, it's not electrical tape. It's colored vinyl tape, less sticky then electrical and thicker, easy to slit and pull off. And underneath is a nice coat of anti seize. I was going to get some coilover covers but the all have that silly velcro slit up the side.

Dan the anticipation of your pics is killing me.

[mr_aj_johnson]

The coilover covers work really well when a couple of zip ties are used.

The longer spring will allow you to run the lower perch a bit lower and allows for more travel without coil bind. Ideally you want even travel up and down.

compare static height



to the amount of droop when in action. Your biggest problem is keeping the tire in contact with the ground.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GtoYkeOx6jk

Also, run a 15" wheel with decently sized tires. You can run the 17"s when you want to look pretty in a parking lot. You are giving up a lot of torque and wheel travel with those behemoths.

[mr_aj_johnson]

oh and bring on the pics!

[zarati]

:stupid:
Agreed with everything AJ said about droop & Tires. Make sure you have plenty of droop. The UR-S4 struts (At least comparing Bilsteins) actually have more travel than the CQ struts do. By about 1".

And on rubber, agreed. 15" Would be far preferable. Besides better acceleration, that lower weight also helps keeps the tires in contact with the ground. If you want to go taller, you can still go with a 205/65-15 which is a little taller. But finding some Used Rally tires would probably be the best bet. Although I've heard the Firestone Winterforce tires (Without Studs) make a pretty good budget Rally-X tire.

[Dan McBoost]

One of the bunch:



Big:
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[Rallyfreak202]

I love the light set up. Looks great getting dirty!

[DE80q]

Looks awesome! I guess yo need to remove the "faux" from the title now.

[frostyflax17]

guess so! i'll change it with RallyX CQ, because there's no way i'm doing stages with this car. no rool cage = no bueno

dan has more pictures coming so i'm excited to see some of my sideways action... and there was a lot of it too.

[DE80q]

Nice! Cant wait to see some more pics. I thought about trying this with my sedan when I get the 20vt installed, but i think the lowering springs will put a stop to that.

[frostyflax17]

rafe's car was on lowering springs, handled the course pretty well, actually had a softer suspension then me by far.

[DE80q]

Interesting, maybe I will have to try this one day.

[outonthetiles]

Yep, H&R's and Konis on my car handled the course real well. A little stiff, but not bad. The only advantage to being slightly lifted on this course would be to not put holes in the oil pan.

[autoholic]

Nice, looks like fun.

I did an RX here in VT last weekend, was a blast. also did another one in VT a few weeks back, but had problem with my car first run, ended up running the MB wagon just for fun.

They let you run SA with those wheels/tires?

You should make the trip to Stafford CT in Jan, huge course, two day event.

[zarati]

What rates are the 2-Bennett Coils? I'm guessing around 400#??
You mentioned going with 200# Coils? Thats sounds a little soft to me. For rally in the Pacific Northwest we usually run around 275 - 325# springs. 10-12" unless you have a "Fancy" Setup running racing Bilstein inserts like VBares is running on his 4kq. I think they are running 14" Springs but i could be wrong.

Anyhow, I ran 275# on my 4000tq for RallyX and I thought they were about perfect. For a heavier CQ I would probably go for 300# or more. Of course they are easy to change out later, but.... thought I'd mention.

And BTW... The car looks HOT. Its a little "Hot Wheels" With the big wheels and tires, but I do like the look. Toned down a little, maybe with some 225/55-16's or similar I think it would look great.

[frostyflax17]

they're 350lb springs on it right now and it's very stiff. aren't stock springs really soft?

yeah, i don't have the extra coin at this point to purchase some racing inserts that are taller. wish i did, and the time to swap everything around again.

rear height down

rear droop

front droop


i thought you guys said the urs4 style bilsteins had more droop then the stock struts?

on another note,
yesterday i was driving along and all of a sudden my car turned into a racecar with an open exhaust. looked under the car and my pipe had come out of the band clamp. oops. drove it home and gave it a lil "power" through the rpms... at 12am. Sounded so good i had a smile on my face the whole time. Fixed the exhaust and clamped it a bit better so it wouldn't happen again.

installed the missing lower rubber trim on the passenger side (stole it off my pearl coupe :( )

polished the rear tail lights so they match the center panel a bit better. the red is a darker shade for the us tails, but at least it's all glossy now.
before

after

color difference


cleaned up the rear hatch some and attempted to fix the squeak again. got it a little bit better.

also made an appointment next tuesday to get the front windshield replaced. it's definitely needed.

[zarati]

When comparing Bilsteins, Ur-S4 inserts are longer than CQ inserts IF you are comparing apples to Apples.

IE: UR-S Sports are longer than B3 Sports.
UR-S HD's are longer than B3 HD's.

The full breakdown gets compmlicated though. For instance, on an UR-Q which is the only small chassis car that had P36 Series Bilsteins on all 4 corners (As opposed to the small body P30 series that all 4000q, 80q, CQ's had), the fronts and rears do NOT share the same part number. The fronts are longer by about 1/2" and Softer. Thats right, softer. Why I have no idea. But they have less bump and rebound valving than the shorter rears. Makes no sense to me.

Then when you move to UR-S HD's, they are longer still than the Ur-q fronts, and the valving is totally backwards from the B3 units. They have More Rebound, and Less compression. I assume this is to make them feel "softer" in the luxury car, but have the added rebound to control the much stiffer UR-S Springs. This is likely why they work so well for our High Spring rate adjustable setups. That higher rebound helps control the 300#+ Springs better.

I've posted all the specs elsewhere but I'll toss them here instead. I just start a thread for my own specs to reference. The numbers came direct from Bilstien and from time to time I'll verify random selections with them if I"m already on the phone with them. They seem consistent.

B3 / CQ
FRONT
HD’s P30 - 3005
Compressed: x / 17.95
Extended: x / 21.71
Travel: x / 3.76”
Valving: 265/98

Sports P30 – 3006
Compressed: x / 17.95
Extended: x / 20.93
Travel: x / 2.98”
Valving: 265/98

B3 Rears. (See Ur-Q rears. Same PN's, Same Valving)

UR-Q SHOCKS
Front PN – HD’s - P36-3016
Compressed: 435.0 / 17.13”
Extended: 548.5 / 21.59”
Travel: 113.5 / 4.47”
Valving: 174/43

Rear PN - HD’s - P36-3017
Compressed: 440.0 / 17.32
Extended: 538.5 / 21.20
Travel: 98.5 / 3.88”
Valving: 197/47

Front Sports: ????

REAR - SPORTS - P36-3058-H0
Compressed: x / 17.32
Extended: x / 20.41
Travel: x / 3.09"
Valving: 196/47
----------------------------------------------------
UR-S4 Front Shocks
Front
P36-0370 “HD”
Compressed: 17.28”
Extended: 22.1”
Travel: 4.82”
Valving: 113/101 Comp/Rebound

P36-0369 “Sport (front)”
Compressed 17.28”
Extended: 21.2”
Travel: 3.92”
Valving: 119/107 Comp/Rebound

[zarati]

Are you SURE your rears are UR-S4 Struts, or are you calling them that because they are large Diameter? The UR-S4 units have a totally different upper mounting and are NOT compatible with stock strut mounts. If you have stock upper strut mounts, they are not UR-S4 Shocks. THey are probably one of the other units. If they are, they are probably Sports which are shorter but even UR-S Sports are reasonably long.

[frostyflax17]

Stock styled strut mounts (034 street density). So they are just a larger diameter style of some sort, hank built them I believe? Either that or he bought them 2nd hand as well.

I have to look into how to install some taller struts in the rear if I want to get more serious into rallyx.

For now, the focus is proper sized tires... and getting my mudflaps and reiger wing installed.

[zarati]

ALL rears on ALL B3 Cars are the larger diameter P36 Series. And compared to stock fronts or Boge Turbo Gas, etc, they look massive because of the design.

If you want more travel, I would look into UR-S4 Shocks and custom upper mounts. I have a CHEAP Solution that works for the rear, but its not robust enough for the front. Even in the rear I have to replace them often. Best bet would be to look for some quality units like what Mance sells.

If you want the "Cheap" Option to keep some travel. Get some Urq Fronts. They are the closest you'll find to UR-S4 in terms of travel. And for $50 per shock (At least it was $50 each about 5 years ago), you can have them custom valved and jack the rebound way up to compensate for hte stiffer springs.

[zarati]

they're 350lb springs on it right now and it's very stiff. aren't stock springs really soft?

Yes, but how soft?
Stock 4000q fronts are around 130lbs per inch. I would guess that CQ springs are approaching 200lbs. My butt tells me they are well above 150 based on how they perform in a 4000q. 200# might be nice for snow or Ice racing. But I would think you will want more spring so you can beat on it. Maybe not 300, but I'd at least go for over 250#.

[frostyflax17]

so maybe 250lb front and back would be more for what i'm going for. i'd rather go too soft with this car then too hard. This car i'm building for comfort and rallyx.

i'm still slightly confused on why i have so much more droop in the front then i do in the rear. looking at the numbers you posted says they should be within an inch or so within each other. there's more like 3" of difference. Maybe there's something mechanical that isn't allowing the rears to droop as much? i didn't look into that at all while looking at it. but then again, i didn't have to compress them to install them so that throws that out the door.

anyways, here's a picture of the tails better lit after polishing them. as you can see the side have a different luster then the center as mcboost puts it. the chrome behind the red outside plastic is much more bright then the sides. Regardless, you really have to be looking at it to notice. it looks better from behind then a stock cq though imo



and another one i took after a lil rain... love the front of this car now.

[Dan McBoost]

(looks like an E30 at dark)

[frostyflax17]

more pictures thanks to my hero dan

[Dr.Strangelove]

I love the rs2 centre section. I wonder if you could spray some clear with a little tint in it to match the colour of the tailights a bit better.