Parts Car to Daily Driver: 1990 Cayenne Pearl Cq

[PRY4SNO]

WAUGE08B6LA007522


I watched this car on a local forum for about a year (plagued with low oil pressure, peeling clear coat), then pounced when the price was right & I could logistically swing the deal.



Initially I'd intended to use the car for parts in a suspension/subframe overhaul on my Black Cq, but I've since changed direction.



Now that all of my parts are in from 034, and both cars are shoehorned into the garage, I have begun my "other" project... :slap:

Plan is to swap the motor from my Black car into the Red 'parts car' and drive Red during winters and to/from work. That way, Black can be a pretty turbo car for summer and special events.




There are a few things that may or do need to be repaired on Red before I can call her roadworthy/go for insurance mechanical inspection:

- tires
- motor swap
- passenger headlight
- emergency brake
- passenger window motor

I'll have to look into the hydro-bomb some more. It may warrant a vac swap sooner than later.

Since Black will be off the road a while with a drivetrain refurb, I will purloin some parts from Black to use on Red that won't be missed any time soon and do some jobs that are easier now; aka, While I'm In There...

- K&N air filter (edit)
- Euro V6 front bumper/S2 fogs
- OEM leather shift knob
- S2 3-spoke steering wheel
- ARP head studs
- 034 motor/trans mounts (street density)
- 034 7A EFI upgrade & relay
- 034 phenolic intake manifold spacer
- ceramic coated bag'o'snakes header & downpipe
- coolant/brake/tans/motor oil flush

The inbound 7A from Black has ~300k km on the clock. Red's chassis has 205xxx km. I'll perform the next TB service at 250k km as per Red's odometer reading.

[frostyflax17]

Urq intake manifold? I can't see pictures on this computer... but are we talking about putting that on a 20v head? Explain please

[PRY4SNO]

Sorry, I meant an Urq intake air duct. The scoop that goes behind the headlight vs. the flimsy 90 air intake with a snorkel.

I'll post pics tomorrow or thereabouts.

[PRY4SNO]

Donor motor:

[Audilard]

Nice buy! Love that color.

[my2000apb]

that color is awEsome!

[PRY4SNO]

Nice buy! Love that color.

Thanks! For three figures, who can complain?

that color is awEsome!

I'm not the biggest fan actually! Who knows, maybe it'll grow on me...

[PRY4SNO]

Just to clarify, the centre gauge below shows the reason for my swap:



<embed width="600" height="361" type="application/x-shockwave-flash" allowFullscreen="true" allowNetworking="all" wmode="transparent" src="http://static.photobucket.com/player.swf" flashvars="file=http%3A%2F%2Fvid1135.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fm621%2FPRY4SNO%2F1990%2520Cayenne%2520Metallic%2520Cq%2FF8678916-680A-46E9-9330-135249E82C92-10081-00000972F39087F8.mp4">
(edit: direct link
http://s1135.beta.photobucket.com/user/ ... 8.mp4.html)


Even though I've trod this ground before, there were a couple tasks that took days unto themselves to finish. For example, the B3 front bumper... what a major pain in the ass. I can have a B4 bumper off in about 6 nuts/bolts and 10 minutes. Surprised I didn't add any damage myself during removal.




Also the starter on red. I've had to r'n'r the starter on black a half-dozen times and none of that experience seemed to help. In the end, absent any space to spray penetrant or use a second wrench, a hammer or torch, I managed to find a massive 3/4"-drive ratchet and step it down to do the job.






Otherwise, the task has been pretty smooth and gone according to plan (where 20+ years of crud and rust are to be expected, of course ).

Pics for clicks:











Both motors are out, and for now the biggest job is to clean/clear floor space so I can align the hoist/motor for install.

Couple things on the TO DO list before any final assembly, and a couple after, then she's rolling again!

[PRY4SNO]

We're rolling!

Went out for her maiden voyage, a nice little shakedown run to the bank then Canadian Tire to have some spare keys cut.

Issues/first impressions:

-- Old gas is causing misfires... wondering if I should add some octane booster to help bring it back up to regular (car sat for well over a year, and I found a receipt for REGULAR in the back seat :facepalm). Wondering because a Fifth Gear segment showed a net loss of ~2hp using various boosters on an engine dyno. Prob just run the tank down to 1/8 and refill.

-- Speedo/tach lights are out... where do I start looking for a fix? Fuses/relays?

-- The (!) light won't go off, but press the Auto Check and there's nothing indicated as being wrong.

-- Brakes are basically pooched... ebrakes are totally seized and there's a lot of travel before not a lot of bite, then she shudders under hard braking. And smells. haha I have some new Motul 5.1 and the old brakes from my black Cq to use as replacements so that should do the trick.

-- Some PS whine at near or full-lock, and the Xplug is leaking a bit... likely a worn o-ring.

-- The captive bolts on the license plate are way beyond worn out... so I stuck the plate in the window up top right corner for now.

Other than that... she runs like a top!!!!! :-)

-- The trans shifts like BUTTER.
-- Heat comes on fast and hot.
-- Heated seats work very well.
-- Alignment is spot on.
-- Struts feel really good.

Pics to follow but I'm really happy with this car so far, think it's going to be a solid daily for a few years to come before she gets gutted and caged for 07k track duty

[loxxrider]

Love that color, nice pick-up. Looking forward to seeing the progress on both projects!

[AudiSport4000]

Instrument cluster comes out easy in these cars. To make it REALLY easy just pop the steering wheel off, then the upper column switch cover. That will expose the 2 screws holding the cluster in. Just remove those, undo the connections in the back and pull the cluster. Id recommend just replacing all the man cluster illumination bulbs now and be done with it. I use the GREEN base bulbs (they are on autohausaz when searching for your particular model). It would be a good time to replace anything else in the cluster thats flakey

[PRY4SNO]

Thanks for the comments guys.

-- AS4k, I've done the steering rack on my black car so I know how to pull the cluster. I was thinking of stealing those bulbs to see if that's what it was before doing an LED upgrade. Thanks for the autohausaz tip though, I'll keep that in mind! Always forget about that vendor.




On another note, the hard fuel cut I was experiencing was almost certainly the 1.5 year-old 87 octane gas (LOL probably turned to varnish). I ran it as low as I dared and refilled with proper V-Power 91.

Still have a weird hard start when warm though, loves to crank and crank before turning over. Then it will stumble/almost die (or will if I'm not on the gas pedal) before smoothing out into a normal idle. Hopefully a fuel filter will fix that, and intend to add a check valve downstream of the filter to prevent back siphonage.

The (!) light was low PS fluid. Topped it up and bled the system, light's out. The whining seems to have subsided. The rock hard brake pedal I'd get randomly seems gone too, but haven't put too many km on since this last bit of work. If it continues I'll look at the hydro-bomb.

[PRY4SNO]

Ok, fun continues...

Went to install my custom machined AC delete cap (more on that later ) and found this...


My guess is CV grease or brake fluid... hoping for the latter as they're easier but if it's the former anyone figure I'll be okay for the next little while to drive till I have time off and parts to fix?

[PRY4SNO]

Wow, it's been a while.

Since we last spoke, a 16 year old kid ran through a tee intersection (came out of nowhere, just behind a pickup) and clipped my driver's front fender smashing the bumper, signal light and fender. Have since settled and sourced a replacement bumper and clear corner Depos, but the fenders (and the all the high priority parts I wanted for my hotrod build) fell thru at the last minute. Some lowlife pulled a smash'n'grab on Petar and both of us lost out

Later, I installed the A/C delete plug I had made after removing the A/C components at the dryer canister and fender. Fits like a glove. Also, the front passenger axle and fuel filter were replaced at a local indy shop when I was too busy. Later I did both window regulators (which took about four tries on the d/s because the lock plunger kept getting stuck).

[PRY4SNO]

On to the confusing bit:

Hot start & hesitation issue persists. Was poking around tonight and noticed one spade terminal on the temp sensor (?) had come disconnected (on the back p/s of the valve cover). So I popped it back on and boom! Car fires right up (while warm!) and I drive to get gas. No sputter/hesitation at all or ambiguous throttle like usual. Coming home, the car takes her sweet time to crank over and is backfiring (!!) and cutting power. Not sure if I'm going to make it the mile home or not, no power in any rev range. Then it's back. Then gone again. Feels like she's pulling timing like crazy.

Just over the last few days I've been having to crank the heat to relieve the engine bay, although the gauge never goes past 90* (which is right where the fan kicks on). Fluid is fresh and right on the line in the overflow tank. Yet the coolant idiot light comes up like a billboard? Will go off again when temps go down to ~75*... what am I missing?

[PRY4SNO]

Added a sliver of 50:50 g12 and the light hasn't come back on since.

Hesitation/power cut was caused by bad knock sensor(s), switched to the bolt thru style and the symptoms disappeared.

Going to try the FPR regarding the hard start issue before going hog wild. Might as well start there, the existing one got mangled at the rubber mounts during the knock sensor swap, haha.

Full heat seems to come through the defrost on the highway, for whatever reason...

[All_Euro]

Good to be making progress before winter hits

So if you have heat but it's just not getting into the cabin unless you're on the highway… seems like your fan isn't working properly or airflow is partially blocked…? Easy stuff to get to to check right

[PRY4SNO]

Lots of little things on the go, some highlights include:

-- passenger door won't open (EDIT: cycled the door locks a few more times and :presto: it opens)
-- swapping to s2 hubs and uprights soon, need oe Boge (or Sachs?) strut top mounts to go with my MountSavers. Any cheap sources or help identifying the exact PN/number on this diagram?


EDIT:

Strut top mounts are #30?
8A0412323D

[PRY4SNO]

So if you have heat but it's just not getting into the cabin unless you're on the highway… seems like your fan isn't working properly or airflow is partially blocked…? Easy stuff to get to to check right

It's not that, it's that the heat is on forcefully when on the highway and up to temp. So climate control is turned off and I have defrost and footwell heat.

[PRY4SNO]

Maintenance time...

-- Re-torque ARP head studs... been about 60k km since they were first installed and only needed about 10# to get back to the 80# spec:


-- Replace FPR... the original one busted at the rubber mounts while replacing the knock sensors:

The car randomly lurched/bucked/hesitated pretty bad for the first while, at any load (fwy. cruise, steady city driving, from a start), but seems to be dissipating. Figure the FPR was gummed up/stuck? Came off my black coupe and I'd had no problems with it before, so I'll try a can of Seafoam in the gas tank and see if that solves, unless someone has a BTDT tip to offer?


While I was in there, I noticed that every intake runner was coated on the inside with an oil mist... my buddy Adam (username: ads) suggests PCV leak? Runners 1 & 5 (pictured below) were the worst offenders:



Then, I was buttoning up the VC and found the bolt that holds down the after run sensor was too short... thankfully there was an appropriate replacement in my bolts pile culled from scrapping various A4's and S4's.



Now on to the tricky bit:

Button everything back up and I get a dummy light in the dash for the oil light. Look down at the gauges, and once the oil is up to temp, she's 3.5bar at idle and 5bar over 1100 rpm or so. So I have a look and sure enough, a spade on the low pressure sensor was off (the closest one to the bumper). Except, when I got it back on the light still comes up and beeps at me.

How likely is the one-pin white oil pressure sensor below the two-pin mentioned above to be the culprit?

Other thing is all of the sudden (since I buttoned up this job) the coolant temp gauge doesn't work??

[chaloux]

Lol. Reading through this just makes me chuckle (sorry). Just typical old car WTF bs. When you fix one thing something else happens. I have an oil light too in the 4k but I think it's just because I have the wrong sender in there.

[PRY4SNO]

Lol. Reading through this just makes me chuckle (sorry). Just typical old car WTF bs. When you fix one thing something else happens. I have an oil light too in the 4k but I think it's just because I have the wrong sender in there.

Haha Matt, I don't take offence at all.

I know you've suffered far worse than the average camper... and now you're there! Your thread(s) provide continual inspiration to keep trudging along.


I figure if I replace 056 919 081 E that should take care of the oil light.

Then I have to figure out why my coolant temp. gauge doesn't work all of the sudden?

And the herky-jerky bucking/hesitation that comes around randomly after replacing the FPR.

Then I'm basically on easy street.

[All_Euro]

...Then I'm basically on easy street.

That's a pretty bold statement don't ya think... careful

[PRY4SNO]

Well since I last updated, lots of the usual hiccups and delights have occurred.

Had a friend swap the struts/hubs over to S2 coupe spec (imported from the UK) before winter, and went with a decent set of 17" B5 Avus wheels and lightly used Nokian Hakka RS tyres. Also installed new Sachs top mounts all around and VAP MS1's up front.

Went to get an alignment and the shop said I needed a new d/s rear TR which they'd gladly get me in three days for $350. I shopped around and found a local indy shop (Autobahn) who hooked me up for $225ish, next day. I let the align place install the TR as I was occupied with work, and they got to the front and couldn't get the last 0.5˚ for front toe so offered to replace the TREs for me or I could bring it back. hahah I opted for the free, mostly done, alignment instead.

Chewed thru an alternator belt twice and missed two overtime days at work, though on days that were windy and below -25˚C, so I didn't mind so much. As it happened, I swapped the alternator and tensioning bracket/gear from my black coupe on a 25-below day anyways. Since then, she's been happy... only needed tensioning once.

As a result of missing work, I parked the car at my friend's farm and bought his '93 UrS4 in Cyclamen Metallic (which is a damn close match for Cayenne Pearl) on Ecru as a solid runner with a few issues for a fair price. Came with BNIB Blauparts shock kit, VCG, fuel filter and oil change kit as incidentals.

The laundry list of gremlins on the UrS got to me (mostly electrical related) and I bought a black/black 92.5 urs4 shell from a local enthusiast. I'd previously bought d2a8 rear brakes for my black coupe from him, and couldn't pass up the killer deal. Car was worth 3x the cost in basic parts (trans/struts/hubs/billy+h&r/new rad&ps/black interior etc). Initially went to look at the car for a few things like window regs and p/s hoses & pump, and walked away with another project. haha

In the meanwhile, I pulled the parts coupe out of hibernation to pull d/d status once more, until my latest swap was completed. She fired right up after a few months' storage, on a -30˚C day.

About a week before I finished the project, the clutch exploded about a mile from home. Luckily I was able to coast into a parking spot at the back of a local hardware store and leave her there a week or so until I'd signed up for AMA and arranged towing.

So now she sits, parked at home on a time-out again, at least until I have the time/inclination to pull the trans to fix. Or I get a good price for her to the right home.




Note to self, current issues:

-- oil pressure warning light --> 1-pin sensor (?)
-- coolant gauge doesn't work --> MFTS?
-- random fuel cut --> likely FP
-- rough hot start --> CPS or G4/G28? (or FP?)
-- alignment, TREs
-- d/s front cv boot
-- clutch/pp
-- passenger door lock barrel
-- heat on all the time
-- 12v lighter doesn't work
-- needs new speakers, badly