PRY4SNO wrote:Looks like you could hang with some good company at that video's time (1.49-ish)
45. Chevrolet Cobalt SS/TC 1:47.75 46. Mitsubishi Lancer EVO IX 1:47.93 47. BMW 335i Coupe 1:49.04 48. Porsche 911 Carrera S 1:50.00 49. Mazda 3 MPS 1:50.38 [/URL])
I'm amazed how fast the Mazda3, Chevy Cobalt & BMW 335I coupe are. Wonder what they had for "goodies"
Here is one of the many projects over the last two weeks to get the car ready for Spring Mountain this weekend
2 Qt Accusump with electric valve.
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I have a pressure switch to activate it and it based on a drop in pressure, but I am thinking about ditching that and operating the electric valve from an rpm based GPO. I am thinking about just having the valve open above 2500-3000 rpms when there is high oil pressure. This is better than a pressure switch that opens the valve below say 35 psi because at idle the pressure is below this and it will empty the accumulator.
Thoughts?
This is where I have it mounted. I would not feel as comfortable with it here if I did not have fender liners
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And of course, random picture of the day. Looks like someone sprung a small water leak!
Get rid of the electric valve and go with a manual one. The electric valve is slow to react, and also slow flowing. Another problem with it is that it will always try to refill the reservoir, even when "off". So if your oil level is low, it will still try to fill the reservoir, thus starving the motor, creating a vicious cycle.
Mark Siggelkow '90 CQ-R - NASA GTS-4 '12 TT-RS (Wife's DD) '00 A4 1.8TQ (My DD) '62 356B (vintage racer) '07 Toyota Tundra CrewMax (for towing/hauling)
Mark, I was playing with the valve, and it flows enough to very quickly empty the accumulator. Within a few seconds! I can see how the electric valve will allow recharge when you think it is closed, but this is not any different than a ball valve that is open all of the time. This is why I want to hook it to a gpo, so it can't open at low rpm when at idle. With a ball valve you would have to always be open and closing it.
audifreakjim wrote:I have a pressure switch to activate it and it based on a drop in pressure, but I am thinking about ditching that and operating the electric valve from an rpm based GPO. I am thinking about just having the valve open above 2500-3000 rpms when there is high oil pressure. This is better than a pressure switch that opens the valve below say 35 psi because at idle the pressure is below this and it will empty the accumulator.
Thoughts?
When running it on the track use a switch and have the valve open all the time. Gives the most stable oil pressure. BTDT :-)
Jimmy, how old are your lifters, or what brand do you have in there? How high do you rev the motor?
Only time I've had lifter tick was when I was low on oil (not full, more towards the bottom of min mark) during Auto-X. Never had an issue on track, but I only revved my 7A to about 7,200, although it would often sit there a lot. Can you monitor your oil pressure better? If your pressure is good you may be chasing something else here.
same, my 7A gets a bad tick only when i start getting low. If I am dead center of the oil marks, then hard corners get the low oil light to come on, if i keep it near the top mark then no issues at all
I would run the accusump open all the time with a manual valve. Open it right before you start the engine. Close it right before you turn it off. I've never seen one run different than that.
My pulls .82g at 70mph roll ons in 3rd as indicated my my new aim dash, which also monitors oil pressure. Logged together, the 1.4G I get in 1st, the 1.15g in second, I see a drop in oil pressure when reving past 6500. Not below 30 psi, but i would rqther have a solid 65psi everywhere. If I am rippiny 1-2-3-4, oil pressure gets spooky low. Lifters complain a lot
ShavedQuattro wrote:My pulls .82g at 70mph roll ons in 3rd as indicated my my new aim dash, which also monitors oil pressure. Logged together, the 1.4G I get in 1st, the 1.15g in second, I see a drop in oil pressure when reving past 6500. Not below 30 psi, but i would rqther have a solid 65psi everywhere. If I am rippiny 1-2-3-4, oil pressure gets spooky low. Lifters complain a lot
This type of talk does not help with my want of an aim dash. I'm planning on trying the VEMS Android app for now.
The AIM dash is awesome. It is such a powerful little unit. It is so easy to use and constantly datalogs the last 250 key starts!!! I can't wait to get the GPS module so I can see my lines overlapped with my data from my ECU!! I paid around a grand for my pista used, but it was well worth it as I could not have put gauges and sensors together for similar money.
ShavedQuattro wrote:The AIM dash is awesome. It is such a powerful little unit. It is so easy to use and constantly datalogs the last 250 key starts!!! I can't wait to get the GPS module so I can see my lines overlapped with my data from my ECU!! I paid around a grand for my pista used, but it was well worth it as I could not have put gauges and sensors together for similar money.
:lalalalalala: Too many things come in >$1k increments :banghead: Android gauges for now...
My pulls .82g at 70mph roll ons in 3rd as indicated my my new aim dash, which also monitors oil pressure. Logged together, the 1.4G I get in 1st, the 1.15g in second, I see a drop in oil pressure when reving past 6500.
How are you logging this? Did you add a longitudinal G sensor, because according to AiM Pista only has lateral built in sensor.
I still have the aux box from my old innovate box. It is easy to bring in as an input. That is also how I am logging individualegt on multiple channels too. I just didn't have the cash for the aim accessories at the time.
Nate, that is a cleaner way of doing it. I'll have to play with the math.
I see 30 psi in consecutive lower gears, or about 45 psi if I get on it for just one gear. I'll likely accusimp or dry sump soon. I have the dry sump, but that is the easy part.
