2.0L20v90Q...white wheels it is!!

[Zerb]

it usually goes straight out of the hole. then again, ive only launched it hard a handful of times.

[HeartlessNomad12]

Does Aaron run a sway bar?? I would check with him

[speeding-g60]

negatory front or rear.

and yes mine does try to lift a front wheel off the ground. gets close, as well!

[pkw]

i guess theoretically, no need since they only do something in corners and bumps and the second never helps anyone. ask yourself if they are needed for some high speed unexpected, scare the hell of you handling problem. if they will not help there, they will not help at all. i would only keep them if you have some really soft springs but i am guessing you do not.

[Zerb]

right now springs are 600 (?) rear and 400 (?) front. i think i really may ditch them over winter, every little bit of weight helps. and if they arent serving a purpose for my application, no need to have them in the car.

[pkw]

now with that info i would be afraid of it getting squirrelly at 100mph and you back out and the back end finishes swinging around instead of straightening out. with those rates i would keep a front bar but ditch a rear bar.

[death 4kqt]

They are easy enough to take on and off, probably just need to experiment.

[audifreakjim]

It will hook up better without sway bars, but may be a bit more of a handful to drive.

[Zerb]

It will hook up better without sway bars, but may be a bit more of a handful to drive.

so we're thinking out of the hole i may get better grip. but up top it may feel a bit more loose?

[Jretal]

I have the same spring rates on my 4000 with no sway bars. I find when using it on a track (road course - VIR, WG, Summit Point, etc) w/ the pressures right the car is very well planted in corners and straight line. This is reaching speeds of 120mph or so in the straights.

I wouldn't worry about the car getting too squirrelly, but you need to make sure the tire pressures are dialed in correctly. Not sure how this translates to drag racing (never messed with it), but if I ran equal pressures front/rear, the car was a bit tail happy. With 3psi less in the rear than the front, the car is very neutral. I know there's a little bit of a weight difference b/n our cars, but given it's the same suspension setup, I think yours will handle just about the same. I went with such high rates so I COULD ditch the sway bars.

[Zerb]

awesome info man, thanks. when it comes to spring rates, sway bars, etc...im pretty much clueless. i just went with higher rate springs in the rear so that when launching the car didnt squat TOO hard. i generally tend to run a few psi less in the rear tires myself as it is at the track.

[AngryTaco]

I wouldnt run sway bars if you are specifically drag racing. The anti-roll minmalizes the twist of the engine and will have an effect on traction. It might be a little more "loose" in the handling department, but that's where drive skill comes in

I will get better times in the truck with no sways attached vs with sways

[Jretal]

awesome info man, thanks. when it comes to spring rates, sway bars, etc...im pretty much clueless. i just went with higher rate springs in the rear so that when launching the car didnt squat TOO hard. i generally tend to run a few psi less in the rear tires myself as it is at the track.

Yeah, these were recommendations from Mance (VAP) when I bought his coilover sleeve setup. Had a spreadsheet I filled out, and we came up with 6" springs at 400/600 respectively based on my answers, etc. Car is essentially a washboard! Fun as hell in the twisties, but a little punishing on the street w/ 17" low profile tires.

[Zerb]

finally got around to pulling the motor and transmission outta my audi and figured id have some fun with the gopros and do a little time lapse, enjoy.

Link to video


clutch looked toasty just like it did after last season, contemplating going with a heavier dutier clutch masters twin setup then what i have in there currently. rebuild the transmission...locked up 1-2 collar....and then put it all back together. gonna change the powdercoat colors juuuuust a tad as well for this year....that almond WRINKLE is a son of a bitch to keep clean due to the WRINKLE part.

[speeding-g60]

fixed that for you

and i was actually working on launch controlling on the chassis myself today.... and i didnt hear back yet about clutch parts.

Link to video

[Zerb]

ah, i never get this schit right, lol. and i seent that suspension control video on facebook....clever use of an exhaust valve spring

[JonathanL]

Time lapse was sweet

[PRY4SNO]

stock A8 rotor, these come up listed to fit the FRONT of an A8
Diameter 323mm
Thickness 30mm
Height 59.68mm
Center Hole 68mm

these are supposed to be a direct bolt on for the CQ, using RS2 brackets and the boxsterS/996 non-turbo calipers. i would assume that you would need to do some sort of spacing of the caliper bracket if you went to put this setup onto a b390q due to the CQ .vs. b390q front hubs being a different offset...

These are not a direct bolt on for a Cq. For the full story, see my Refurb project thread, the black coupe in my signature.

Cliff notes from my build:
-- Porsche BoxsterS calipers (Brembo 4 piston), pins filed down 1mm as per 90quattrocoupe's DIY
-- 034/Apikol RS2 caliper bracket, + (~3mm) spacer machined to fit
-- Euro A/S8 rotors (323x30mm), spun down inside to clear control arm (~1mm), and spacer machined to fit between rotor & hub (~2-3mm)
-- UrS4 hubs with new bearings, machined to fit
-- Need 5mm hub-centric spacer to fit 235/45-17 rubber (225 max without spacer)

Of course, this will change based on your 90 sedan offset and hubs of choice, but the point was to show that the BoxsterS calipers aren't direct p'n'p as purported.

HTH!

[Zerb]

thinking ill sell off the ROTA slipstreams that i was saving for drag radials. and just rock 275/40/17s all around mickey thompson drag radials.




rears fit. the fronts hit the steering. so spacers will be needed, or perhaps a hub swap from the 90Q hubs to the CQ hubs ive got laying around. we shall see this weekend.

[85oceanic]

[speeding-g60]

or move the steering arm mounts off the strut inboard further like the KW coilovers do. get them away from the tire.

that is what i am looking to do, but i am going to use some rear strut housings as they have the larger diameter caps. since you will be building new strut housings for the coilovers, its actually pretty simple thing to do. but i am going to have to do this for the 26's if i change to them.

it may affect bump-steer or something i dont fully grasp (or care about actually for my intent and purpose) but its a solution. and if it were a bad one would a company such as KW sell them modded like this??

[loxxrider]

I don't know if it would be any good for drag racing, but I'm going to be using a Tilton triple disk from a NASCAR in my Audi. Maybe look into one of those for you drag-racing types.

[Zerb]

the words Tilton, triple disc, and NASCAR in the same sentence.....are surely going to cost me too much money that i already dont have, lol.

i also thought about cutting and turning the upper steering arm mounts. but i think the CQ hub swap will give me more then enough room to do what i need to do. plus pushing the wheel outwards a tad closer to the fender line will give me hella-flush scene points.

[loxxrider]

You'd be surprised... I got mine for really cheap, under $350 I think. The key is that they get run in a race and then the teams just change them out whether they need to be or not. You just have to judge based on the pictures they give.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Tilton-OT11-Tri ... 11&vxp=mtr

[Zerb]

wait, holy shit thats cool.

how do you plan on running one of these in an 01E though?