The 90Q (07k?)

[jbrentd]

I was just looking at spring rates on the KW V1’s today. Based on their specs, I was coming up with ~265 front and ~345 rear. Was comparing those numbers to my DIY setup, which is 300/350 F/R.

[PRY4SNO]

KW v3 all the way.

Dave P. is on record for years saying nothing rides anywhere as well.

Plus they're 3-way adjustable so you can really dial them in for your how your car responds to local conditions and driving style.

[Afterthought]

Ok so here are my thoughts.
Ive heard many people say the KW rides better, it's just that maybe I need some context with that, as in what type of driving are they doing and what not. Like does it ride better driving around town? Or what type of driving etc.
My goal is to have an aggressive setup even if its harsh on the street.

So anyways I started doing a little reading and this is what I found so far.

If I want to go custom/2b style setup, I think I would want around a 400# spring rate, or at least in that ballpark. I would get the Koni Race struts which are dual adjustable and from what I'm finding those off-the-shelf struts are rated for a maximum of 400 lb springs. So I don't know if I would have to get those, send them out and have them re-valved for the spring rates I'm running. Or maybe I'd be ok, that I don't know. Either way the price would come out to be the same or possibly more than KW.

As far as the KW, Im told I need to get them from Europe, I dont see them on Verkline's site but I forget where they are... whenever they are open I can message them and ask the same questions. Can I configure the spring rate to my liking , and if so are the struts going to be good in the range that my spring is in.

[Afterthought]

In other news the "new" manifold is almost completely welded up. Its much closer to having the same amount of bends per runner and its radial flow. I still need alot of practice in the welding but I’m Improving I think, Stainless pipe is real difficult for me to weld . Once I can figure out how to do a nice big Cap pass without overheating it then I would be able to make something really nice.








Now then I can put the axles in and start making exhaust. Oh and I’ll have to find longer exhaust studs , because this nice thick billet flange is much larger than the stock one .

For the exhaust, I was thinking of doing aluminum, or 3.5" stainless but Now I've just settled on good old 3" for now. Will be fine for me and I have the bends already .

[highlander69]

Looks great.

Nice work.

Cheers

[auditrippin]

Welds look pretty impressive to me. That is a lot of time and dedication to your projects. Great write ups.

I have whatever spring rate 2B suggests for the urq, I believe it's 300 and 350. Hopefully I'll find out soon how they ride.

[PRY4SNO]

Aluminum exhaust will crack at the welds... won't handle the cyclic vibration due to the heat if I understand correctly. I want to say Derracuda went through all that on his bitchin' 4kq build of yesteryear.

If you want some stainless or general welding tips, DM me on Instagram with pics/questions and I can ping the welders and QC guys at work for you. They love proving how smart they are lol

Regarding the KW's, I'd talk to Vas on s2forum, or Albert of AK MS. Pretty sure both are active sellers and should be able to provide info toward your questions about fine tuning your set up. When I bought mine I stipulated an aggressive Nurburgring setup but honestly have no idea if/what they adapted to comply. Haven't driven on my v3 yet (*shame emoji) but I know v2 on my buddy's b5s4 were absolutely perfect for aggressive street driving. And we have some pretty rough roads up here from heavy duty traffic and frost heaves.

[Afterthought]

Aluminum exhaust will crack at the welds... won't handle the cyclic vibration due to the heat if I understand correctly. I want to say Derracuda went through all that on his bitchin' 4kq build of yesteryear.

Yeah, so I was looking online to see if there were any videos and I came across his car on youtube. Pretty cool for a couple reasons, first that he was using an aluminum exhaust,which you don't see much. Second, the use of a VGT turbo. Being that I have a diesel truck I have always seen the advantages to those, and wanted to see them used in a car. Its basically a quick spool valve, and exhaust brake, and possibly a wastegate all in one.

If you want some stainless or general welding tips, DM me on Instagram with pics/questions and I can ping the welders and QC guys at work for you. They love proving how smart they are lol

I actually work with a guy who used to be a welder than a QC guy and I was talking to him about it too. I was gonna get together sometime with one of the guys from work and show him what I've been doing.
Its interesting, Sch 10 pipe you see some of the guys on who make headers saying that they are doing it all in one pass and looking at the pics they are getting full penetration. For me I prefer to do a root pass and a second pass over that. I would have guessed that any pipe welder would do that too. But I don't know , I think the best thing for me will be to get some practice . I'm gonna switch to thin stuff for a bit and go back to exhaust.

Regarding the KW's, I'd talk to Vas on s2forum, or Albert of AK MS. Pretty sure both are active sellers and should be able to provide info toward your questions about fine tuning your set up. When I bought mine I stipulated an aggressive Nurburgring setup but honestly have no idea if/what they adapted to comply. Haven't driven on my v3 yet (*shame emoji) but I know v2 on my buddy's b5s4 were absolutely perfect for aggressive street driving. And we have some pretty rough roads up here from heavy duty traffic and frost heaves.[/quote]
Yeah I think I will ping them (albert) and get an idea of what they can do. I have also tried 2B to ask some questions but no luck getting a hold of the suspension guy yet.

[Afterthought]

I got whistlebit on the exhaust, but I have a good portion of it done .

Downpipe














Middle section






Downpipe and mid pipe are finished, I just didn’t have time to get the back section wrapped up. I ordered some stainless bar stock to make hangers with , I don’t want to weld the back until I have the muffler hanging .

I was considering adding a V-band right in front of the muffler to make it removable and replace it with a straight through tailpipe section . It’d be like a 10 minute swap . This is what it will look like . Last few bend aren’t welded yet but I can get that done soon and then see what will fit for tips .



Now after doing this remember I was saying I thought about 3.5”. That would have been insanely hard to fit over the rear subframe .

[DE80q]

That's what Tim did with my 3" exhaust. The over axel pipe is its own piece. Vbanded on either side.

[jbrentd]

Exhaust looks great! I had a shop tell me once it was hard for him to get 2.5" over the axle.

[Afterthought]

That's what Tim did with my 3" exhaust. The over axel pipe is its own piece. Vbanded on either side.

that looks top notch .
Yeah I think I might do the V-band on both sides , because that piece without the muffler connected is at the point where it’s difficult (but still possible) to take it in and out by rotating it like 90 degrees . If I weld the muffler to it , there’s a chance I will have to lower the subframe to take it in and out .
Also I’m remembering that I had seen on Facebook or somewhere someone was making a new right side rear diff mount that allowed more room for the exhaust . I’ll have to see if I can find it . Might be the guy who makes 01E mounts

[PRY4SNO]

Schedule 10 IS thin wall pipe lol. Lots of welders hate that stuff. By doing two passes you're putting a lot of heat into it. Guys I work with (boilermaker and piping welders) would do it in one pass. Easier to get penetration if you're leaving a gap, typically about the size of your filler rod. What we do is bend a rod into a V and put it in between the ends, then tack three times, removing the rod a bit after each tack.

My brother was in on researching VGT Holsets on his mk4 years ago, but there just doesn't seem to be a reliable method of control. With advancements in ECU and other technology it'll be interesting to see it eventually get figured out and implemented. I think the Euro Polos use VGT and twincharging on their super low displacement engines to get respectable power output and still retain good fuel economy. One day...

Exhaust looks great! Definitely agree, v-band both sides of the axle spool. A bit of prep now saves massive hassles later.

[themagellan]

This looks amazing - wow.

[Afterthought]

Exhaust is finished . Here’s a pic dump of that.
I did end up using another V-band so I have 4 separate pieces
•downpipe
•mid pipe
•Over axle piece
•muffler

























The wheels are back from powder coat






This is what it looks like on the ground with stock Suspension . I hope that the tires will
Clear without rolling the fenders






Soon I’ll need to figure out the emergency brake




I will have to come up with a bracket to hold the parking brake caliper using these holes .


After connecting the parking brake somehow , I’ll have to figure out if the stock
Cable will work , likely not but the cable should be easy.
Then I will have to figure out which master cylinder will work well with all of this .

[sayoda]

Exhaust looks beautiful!!

[jbrentd]

Nice work, as usual! And those wheels are one of my all time favorites.

[Afterthought]

Nice work, as usual! And those wheels are one of my all time favorites.

Avantgardes are awesome as well as ATS type 10’s .
I have always loved the look of similar wheels with dish too, like Brock B1’s but over time I’ve started to gravitate towards more lightweight than good looks. In addition to that I’ve always tried to fit what I can without rolling fenders because once the feeders are rolled , the paint has a weak spot and will start to crack there- next thing you know you have corrosion .
Anyway, Putting these brakes on the car and it being a b3 with the less clearance in the back, I feel like it kind of puts me in a tough spot because I have no idea what wheels I can run , but anything with enough offset to clear the brakes by good amount is going to possibly rub .
So since I had these already , I test fit them , verified they fit , and it was an easy choice then to run them for now .

[Afterthought]

I’m gonna try and get a few other things done on the car . Some of the more 07k specific stuff .

I want to try and sort out the oil and coolant lines , figure out where the oil cooler could go .
Because of this dumb alternator and how much in the way it is I am just barely not able to screw on a filter . So I’ll end up using the remote filter mount probably .

If the filter was even just slightly shorter, I’d be able to run it, but I’m not sure if I want to downsize filters . I’ll continue looking at the options .

I also need to sort out the cooling to the turbo . I’ve got an unused line or two on the thermostat housing . For the supply I should
Be able to get coolant to the turbo from the Iabed filter mount block. For the return , I was thinking of potentially using this line , convert it to AN , secure it to something and I’d be good to go .

[Afterthought]

I'm one store trip away from having all of the fittings I need to run the oil and cooling lines.
Ive got one thing on my mind that I'm not sure about.
For some reason I had it in my mind that I was going to pull the oil feed to the turbo off my billet oil distribution block. A passageway exists that I think I could use for just that, but I don't know if there is enough space between the block and the engine to fit a 90. I think I can get it. But i noticed some run it off the head
Anyways Im maybe overthinking it . I have just looked at factory TTRS and RS3 diagrams and noticed they run it off a port that NA engines don't have, coming from the mains. Will it drop the pressure in the head or cause it to drain down in any way? I don't know any way to tell other than to try get the engine running and try both, monitor pressure.
Either way the restrictor inside the EFR turbo housing is slightly than 1/16".





Once I decide on that I can start to do the lines for the oil cooler and figure out if there's any place left up front to put it.

[audifreakjim]

I've been running my feed off the head and I would not advise it. I think it pulls valuable pressure away from the head and VVT.

The better place is on the front of the block at the oil passage for the mains. Don't tap it though, you will block one of the feeds, you'll need to weld a bung on.

I have seem a few examples of #5 spinning from less oil pressure at the end of the block right there. I've always wondered if the ideal solution would be to actually help feed the mains and the turbo from a bung on that spot.

I should go try some of this stuff..

[Afterthought]

hmm interesting. Ok I will see what I can come up with.

If I can ever get my act together and get this car running its a perfect car to test things out because I could start with stock and not trash a built engine
Also I put this engine in yesterday for testing and fit up of some stuff

[Afterthought]

I think I can see the passage you were talking about , I’d have to pop this cap out and then weld a fitting on to the block ... should be fairly simple .



The other thing I had looked at , this hidden plug, it’s m16x1.5 and I had thought it might be a good source for oil because it is filtered , oil but is upstream of the block and head .

[jolio1994]

Judging from the last picture, you may be able to run a 90° fitting straight out of the housing. From there just an it with a -4 line to the turbo.

[Afterthought]

Judging from the last picture, you may be able to run a 90° fitting straight out of the housing. From there just an it with a -4 line to the turbo.

they didn’t have a 90 in M14x1.5 At the store but I found one on summit . I also ordered a banjo fitting in case it won’t work . But I’m pretty certain if I decide to use this port I can get it with a 90
This is a different sized 90 for comparison